Hospitality’s Big Friendly Giant Chefs Inspire My Cooking

A first for me after invited guests struggled to find child-minders. So we decamped to their house and produced the meal from their kitchen.

I had already planned and shared the menu below with them so the only surprise would be whether I managed to get everything right on the night with unfamiliar equipment. All I’ll say is that I wasn’t disappointed with my efforts - and everyone was most convincing with their endeavours to be complimentary.

BFG Chefs (others are available!)
Helen Everitt-Matthias included as the doyenne of British restaurants’ front of house.

“Standing on the shoulders of giants” is a nice, if full-blown, concept but the elements of this menu relied, as ever, on the skills and wisdom of some of cooking’s finest exponents.

Here are the ‘giants’ who were referenced for the meal which I planned - with links to some of the recipes which you might be tempted to try out in your kitchen.

Nigella Lawson - ‘Bar Nuts’

Thomas Keller - ‘Bacon and Eggs’

David Everitt-Matthias - ‘Bar Nuts’ (the outtakes!), Ras-el-hanout mix, Prune pre-dessert (Recipe in chef’s ‘dessert’ - BUY IT!), Dessert (Recipe in chef’s first cookbook, ‘essence’ - another must-buy!), Petits fours - Salted caramel and peanut truffles, White chocolate and preserved lemon fudge, Mulled wine pastilles

Richard Bainbridge - Fish course

Catherine Fulvio - Main

Yotam Ottolenghi - his recipe for Olive Oil Crackers* was adapted for my ras-el-hanout cracker
* the recipe is more or less here - but discard the sesame seeds and the author’s ignorance of Ottolenghi’s first book, ‘Ottolenghi, The Cookbook’ from 2008 in which the recipe appears!

George Blogg - No recipe used BUT the booklet from his ‘Chef’s Masterclass’ given when Gravetye Manor was closed for the new restaurant build is the starting point and inspiration for planning many of my own more developed menus.

Coffee as always is ordered from HASBEAN

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Union Square Cafe's Bar Nuts, Bacon and egg, Pain d'épices with smoked mackerel and horseradish

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Spicy parsnip soup, ras-el-hanout cracker

Our fish starter is tried and trusted. Please don’t @ me over the appearance of that haddock. This photo was taken in my kitchen hours before the meal with a ’cushion’ of raw fish. Eat your heart out food stylists!

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Poached haddock with stewed leeks, soy-cured egg yolk and curry dressing

A lovely, celebratory dish for our main. Prep pics plus the only photograph taken on the night itself.

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Pheasant breast with wild mushrooms and parmesan polenta

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Chocolate and cardamom yoghurt, Armagnac prune purée and grue de cacao

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Millas cake with liquorice bramble compôte and lemon verbena ice cream

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White chocolate and preserved lemon fudge, Salted caramel and peanut truffles, Mulled wine pastilles

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Sensible menu.
Added nonsense with no extra charge.

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Recipes, menus, matching food to wine, catering for larger groups… preparation and inspiration to become a better cook

‘pickled quinces’ - a Diana Henry recipe

On the way home from our very recent stay in Norfolk we reached the Kings Lynn road and headed east in the wrong direction. Only for a mile. We had promised ourselves a visit to Back To The Garden - Farm Shop to grab as much of their bounty as we could before leaving the county.

A pre-planned purchase of enough of Mrs Temple’s Wells Alpine cheese to cook Richard Bainbridge’s lovely ‘Alpine cheese soup’ proved successful. And then, amidst the crates of seductive fruit and vegetable produce, were these pale and exceedingly interesting quinces. I’m not sure that this fruit will make Diana Henry spring to your mind but my thoughts immediately turned to her cookbook, ‘salt sugar smoke’*, perched patiently on a shelf back home and I bagged up enough of this slightly unexpected harvest knowing that there was a recipe on page 226 waiting for my attention. This is just one of so many deliciously approachable recipes in the book. Not readily available on the interwebnet thingy - all the more reason to buy your own copy!

*Diana (or her publisher) goes all lower case headings with this 2012 offering so please don’t be jangled by my faithful repetition of the device here and in the title of this post.

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“I love the quince's shape, its generous curves and bulges. It is a voluptuous, even magnificent fruit to look at, like a Rubens bottom.”

Trust Nigel Slater to wax art historically over this fruit.

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The pickling liquor took up the raw sienna pigment from my cinnamon sticks.

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It would have been a missed opportunity to ignore our first Poinsettia of the season’s appearance in the house. #feelingfestive

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The peeling, cutting and particularly removal of the core will have you marvelling at the decidedly tough nuts you are dealing with. You will need a sharp knife and the taking of much care.

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Poaching the quince segments is a tense time. The potential for reducing them to unwanted mush is roughly in line with that of parents who supervise like hawks but suddenly need to ask themselves, “How in Fook’s name did my child come to have that pair of scissors in their hand!?”

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Alles in ordnung. (My low grade pass in German O-Level just reared its ugly head!) Sterilised jars and slightly reduced pickling liquid meet up with the just soft, but not too-softened, quinces. Ready for lids to be screwed down and seals to be clipped tight.

The combination of sour and sweet and the presence of quince’s perfume make this a heady mix. I’m not even going to question if this batch will be mature enough by the end of the month. It will most definitely make an appearance on Boxing Day with our traditional ‘cold collation’ lunch.

An extra reward for my efforts remains. Enough pickling liquid survived, its tang softened by quince contact. Leaf gelatin will be added to make a jelly. Lozenges of that around a cut of pork or a terrine will add a ‘Cheoffy’ touch to some of my more developed plates very soon.

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Labels were applied for a final photo before I settled down to write on some of Mrs Cheoff’s hand-crafted Christmas greetings cards. It looks like we have enough of a generous Kilner jar of pickled tracklement to accompany our own festive hams, cheeses and terrines. That small, but perfectly formed, supporting duo of mini jars might be used as gifts. But for whom? Hmmm…

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Benedicts... Another Helping

Tasting Menu for three: Friday 11 May 2018

Our fourth visit. About time I dished the dirt, eh? (#Spoileralert: No dirty dishes here - Benedicts is all about hospitality at its polished best)

This meal was a treat for my Mum as part of her 90th birthday celebrations. I had messaged ahead and asked for minimal fuss on that account. Chef Bainbridge has his own inspirational and much-loved mother and I guess he was not going to let my Mum’s evening pass without acknowledging her particular landmark. This greeting card and a pudding with a message at the end of the meal (pic at the end of this post) were quiet, thoughtful gestures which added to Mum’s enjoyment but did not distract other diners. Nicely done.

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We were greeted by Adam Vass who I introduced to Mum as the ‘Head Honcho of Hospitality’. But Adam is just one representative of a team who effortlessly bust a gut to make your dining experience special and memorable.

We shared the current tasting menu. I won’t try to describe the dishes which gave us waves of pleasure across the evening. These pictures should give you more than enough food for thought. They are from Benedicts social media pages and are most likely taken by the multi-faceted and terrifically talented Katja Bainbridge. A click on each picture will link to her originals. Here they are - you might even try scrolling to the end of them before exploring booking options. Good luck!

Be prepared for nibbles and treats to arrive from the kitchen as you relax into your first drinks and try to remain calm at the thought of further glorious offerings in store.

Benedicts Homemade Crisps

Benedicts Mini Cheddar • Apple • Chive

Rice Cracker with Sherry Mousse

Those ‘further glorious offerings’? Here are two dishes from our tasting menu.

Wells Alpine Soup • Wild Garlic Tortellini

‘Milk & Cookies’

There is tangible joy in a room full of excited and delighted diners. This is due to the seamless delivery of everything which should be found in any top restaurant - great food and perfectly judged service. There is also the welcome bonus of generous prices. Mum was able to use all her still very much intact faculties to soak up the wonderful experience created by Benedicts exceptional team.

The Michelin Guide UK have also visited. Their pithy two word assessment below of ‘Simple restaurant’ gives no clue as to the complexity and quality of what is offered at every service at Benedicts. Subjectivity leaves all sorts of blurred edges but I just can’t help wanting to give those Michelin inspectors a subjective kick up the arse.

Richard, Katya and the Benedicts team will, of course, remain magnificent whatever a tyre company or a blogging bloke like me might think.

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Rhubarb dessert and one very happy birthday Mum.

Here are some of the team celebrating yet another award shortly after our visit.

We continue to be lucky enough to have experiences elsewhere which help us know and understand a little bit about good food and service but we loved Benedicts from the start. Each time we return things get better! Which means that our 240 mile journey there and back will never be a barrier to returning as often as we can.

Chef Bainbridge: Inspiration

Some things nag at you for a while. Yes, indeed. This one has been nagging at me for just over two years now… cripes!

The great thing about social media is that, in the midst of composing my own meanderings, I am occasionally brought up short by the presence of much more accomplished, purposeful and committed people. I was completely side-tracked by a tweet from BENEDICTS Restaurant Head Chef, Richard Bainbridge. Posted on a day which would not recur for another four years, it really appealed to my interest in the creation of menus, especially the more developed and thoughtful menus of people who have devoted their life to the challenge of providing food for which I'll gladly pay.

Posted on Twitter - 11:27 AM - 29 Feb 2016 - Giving a new meaning to 'Chefs Table'

These few words accompany chef's picture:
"Spring is in the air !!! #inspiration @RestBenedicts..."

I scanned and scoured the picture until I was happy that I'd identified most of the books which Richard had chosen to use for his planning session.  This would be part of his 'spring clean' just nine months into opening the restaurant. It brought home to me the huge difference between what goes on in a professional kitchen and what I attempt at home. I will rarely plan meals for more than a week ahead, with a few extra considerations in the background for upcoming dinners with friends. In Norfolk a new season and new styles of cooking were being considered. Everything to be studied, embraced or rejected (maybe kept simmering for eventual use) and worked into new menus. With the added elements of deciding what is achievable, available, economical and viable in a commercial setting... not to mention having the confidence that the results of those decisions will appeal to diners. 

You can see from my unanswered question on the original tweet that one book at least remains a mystery (Yes, chef, I fully realise that you have a wealth of better things to do than slavishly review and respond to all social media... no offence taken!) but here are links to those which were definitely in the frame and on chef's desk at the time:

‘Heritage’ by Sean Brock
‘Relae: A Book of Ideas’ by Christian F. Puglisi
‘The Desserts of Jordi Roca: Over 80 Dessert Recipes Conceived in EL CELLER DE CAN ROCA’ by Jordi Roca
‘Daniel: My French Cuisine’ by Daniel Boulud
‘Bistronomy: French food unbound’ by Katrina Meynink
'Biota' by James Viles
'Sea and Smoke: Flavors from the Untamed Pacific Northwest' by Blaine Wetzel
'Atelier Crenn: Metamorphosis of Taste' by Dominique Crenn
'Kimchi: Essential Recipes of the Korean Kitchen' by Byung-Hi Lim
'The Nordic Cookbook' by Magnus Nilsson

I have some books with similar themes but none of those specific publications. 'Kimchi' is no surprise. At the beginning of each year food journalists are clamouring to predict what the trends will be for future months. In 2016 many had identified the fermenting of vegetables as a coming thing. This year one of the competitors from the most recent series of MasterChef: The Professionals has helped to put the fermented-related Kombucha in the spotlight (thank you Matthew Campbell). I'm pretty sure that neither Chef Bainbridge or Matt are really interested in 'trends'... but I expect they keep their options open in case a filthy great commercial deal to front 'flavour of the moment' comes along!

Trends alone will not provide the variety of flavours and cooking techniques which Richard offers. They might appear as an element but only if they complement and balance a dish. There might be other trends in the rest of the books on the desk but they would also distract from my main thrust here. Which rather forces me to focus on that thrust.

The reason I was brought up short by a seemingly simple picture was... erm, simple. I would love to have sat next to Richard on the day he took that picture for however many hours it took before he picked up a pan or a kitchen tool. If I was part of a group of keen like-minded cooks that would be great too. It would mean that Richard was running a session unlike any he has previously led except with his professional team. If any cooking ensued, fine. But, for me, it would be enough to join in the process of research and planning which ultimately leads to the creation of a brand new menu and deciding which excess exciting ideas are to be kept on the back burner.

Richard still offers demonstrations and gives talks. Here is his diary for this year. Much success and recognition have led to new commitments which have altered the complexion of courses run at Benedicts. So the chances of me sitting in on the creation of exciting new menus by this top chef are slim now. Maybe I should have contacted Richard two years ago to see if he needed a page-turner for 'The Nordic Cook Book'.

Maybe we should all message him now, two years later, and see if he might squeeze in a day which allows us to watch a magical menu being born.

A cookery class without any cooking isn't everyone's dream ... but it's an idea which I would love to see happen.

Making Norwich even finer

Benedicts, Norwich

My wife, Jan, and I ate at Benedicts on November 5th 2015. We were hoping that this new restaurant would be one more great reason to visit our favourite city. We were not disappointed.

The Place

The restaurant looked most welcoming as we approached on foot in darkness and drizzle. Inside the décor is stripped back and functional. Nothing is imposed on you except the obvious task of choosing your food and drink. I like that approach. People and good food are surely enough ingredients to create a successful atmosphere. I had walked in with the person I love most in the world but we were soon to find out that Benedicts surrounds you with special people as well. More about them later.

The Food

We had already decided to have the tasting menu.  Here it is with my pictures of some of the food. The quality of my photography is rather awful. The quality of the cooking was truly terrific.

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Prawn cocktails and Cheese and Pineapple to start... but not for starters. These were delightful amuse-bouches. The prawns had a light smokiness due to some Jack Daniel's in the sauce. The cheese and pineapple had been ripped away from any evidence of halved oranges and cocktail sticks. They had been given new texture and flavour as well. A good beginning.

A more substantial 'snack' came next. The sumptuous potato mousse and the deep, dark, desperately delicious gravy combined perfectly to show what can be done with simple ingredients.

The lamb dish which was served at the Women's Institute dinner followed. Jan loves lamb and this was a treat for her. Yes, the meat was great and the egg yolk added luxury but our talk all centred on the Jerusalem artichokes which were a revelation. Three approaches leading to unexpected textural and flavour hits. Parsley sponge, lovely as it was, fought, along with the rest of the elements, to combat those artichokes. We tucked in and just enjoyed the struggle. 

The smoked trout is a sophisticated but gentle course which offers relative respite from the richness of the other dishes. The fish was perfect and the buttermilk began to supply some contrast but the plums were too bland. It was the one time when I judged that the quality of produce had been lacking. Among such excellence, it hardly mattered.

The Norfolk quail prep was posted to @twitter a couple of weeks before our visit. The bird is given royal treatment with a glorious herb stuffing. So easy to eat. Vegetables were just right. A further plus was Richard's conversion of my wife to the pleasures of pearl barley... previously scorned by her due to other chef's mistreatment. It will now appear in my risottos, soups, breads and puddings.

Nanny Bush's Trifle rounds off proceedings. You should be aware that the GBM Tasting Menu is not being served from the end of January but this and other winning dishes will still be available on the à la carte menu. Like any successful chef, Richard will be gladly 'saddled' with these dishes for some time... Glynn Purnell is still serving a version of his own winning dessert five years later! The need to satisfy customers with their favourites while continuing to challenge them with your latest innovations is a task I gladly leave to the professionals.

The trifle is glorious. No-one should mess up a trifle and Richard doesn't. Ah, we did have that lovely sweet 'cocktail' as well. Both will certainly be made in our house after our post-Christmas diets are relaxed and I have bribed chef to give me the full recipes!

My simple black coffee is so often a disappointing end to a meal out. Here it was properly brewed from properly roasted beans. Just as good as this fussy individual makes at home ;)

The People (the best bit!)

Richard is magnificently backed by a great team. Katja, his wife, is there supporting the business and making a fuss of all the customers in the best possible way… by not making a fuss about it. Working in a marriage and in a business with your partner has much potential to strain a relationship. I see every sign that it will instead provide challenging, but lovely, opportunities to bring these two closer together.

They have recruited young people to their cause, some less experienced than others. Each one who we met was very good at their job and made it hard to believe that they are still very much at the beginning of their careers. They must take credit for the fine qualities they already have. I am sure those qualities will be developed, nurtured and refined even more by the very much older Richard… he is thirty-three! The only drawback of Adam Vass joining as General Manager is that he must have raised the average age of this lovely, youthful lot by twenty years! I only fail to mention the names of others who looked after us so well since they are embroiled in a fierce contest to gain the most 'Likes' and 'Follows' on social media... I refuse to get involved!

If you watched The Great British Menu 2015 you will know that Richard also recognises the influence on him of some very strong women in his family; his mother in particular. After plating up Nanny Bush's trifle for television judging he attempted to read his written tribute to their inspiration. The love and passion which choked him into handing the task over to another was completely understood and very moving. All in all, there is great human strength behind the ‘Benedict’s’ venture.

To Finish

It is heartening, even though expected, that Benedict's is developing strongly in a very short time. There have been well-deserved awards and glowing reviews. I have referenced some of those below. Extra dining space is being offered and a Private Dining Room can be booked. Cookery demonstrations are available and, of course, the menu will change - but only in ways which will further display @ChefBainbridge's passion.

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As you can see from the picture above, Richard looks over your shoulder for the whole meal to check that everything is to your satisfaction. It's either that or a clever, looming threat to ensure the bill is paid. I did do the sums before settling up but, to be quite honest, it is silly to put a price on such an experience. The only pain suffered during the evening was the sight of each finished plate. Everything else was perfect pleasure.

The final pleasure was when Richard came into the restaurant for a chat after service. He was genuinely interested in our experience, anxious to find out if anything might be improved. In our opinion the kitchen had been right on top of their game so it was very poignant that he admitted to constantly fretting over each dish as it goes out. Let's listen to Gordon Ramsay here... "The more confident a chef, the less he needs to hide." It's a fine ideal but only a misguided chef would think they achieve perfection time after time with every dish. However, while Richard's humility is a lovely thing, his rich talents really demand that he stand in the spotlight taking the plaudits instead of ever trying to find any hiding place.

Certainly our most enjoyable and memorable meal of last year. I wholeheartedly recommend a visit. I do that with a bit of reluctance. Bookings are pretty solid and I want to go again soon... leave me some dates!

We mentioned that Jan and I had met in Norwich many years ago and this was not forgotten in the short spot of Twitterland nonsense which followed:

There is one thing that has nagged at me since seeing his picture on the telly and meeting the man in person. Just where does Richard get the inspiration for his effortless style and panache from? I reckon I've finally found the answer in this iconic plaything for girls and boys.

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Our very sincere thanks, much respect and a lot of love to the entire Benedicts team. 

benedicts, norwich: review - olive

Number 3 in The Times 25 best new restaurants in the UK

Richard Bainbridge on Great British Menu and opening his own restaurant By Sophie Witts, 25-Sep-2015

Benedicts, Norwich: ‘I love a chef who gets jiggy with the animal fats’ Marina O’Loughlin