June 2015 - France: Saturday 13th

June 17, 2015 / Geoff Griffiths

Bonjour! Our first night in France was as comfortable and peaceful as expected.

The reassuring clang of cathedral bells greeted us as we woke on our first morning in France. There is an interesting history of the 'Maison Ailleurs' house on the website. I spent a few minutes capturing shots of the magnificent stairway before breakfast.

I shouldn't really call it breakfast. Petit déjeuner is a more poetic phrase but still doesn't describe the array of wonderful delicacies which were presented to us. The thought which Valérie had put into preparation and presentation created one of the most enjoyable starts to any day that I've experienced... a very special moment.

My command of French wasn't good enough to adequately thank our host for her talents and care. I'll spend some time with Google Translate and some online dictionaries and try to assemble something approaching adequate in a private email.
We said our sad 'au revoirs' (we will definitely be back) and made our way further south.
Late afternoon found us in Leclerc in Souillac. We headed for the champagne aisle and bought a couple of bottles of cheery bubbly.
Fifteen kilometres further down the road and we were back in Payrac with Jayne and Barry, thirteen months after staying with them for the first time.
In a lovely gesture of friendship (and as a small indication that I hadn't offended them as much as I'd feared last year) we were invited for dinner that night.
We had time to take our first dip in the pool where Barry was trying to adjust his seasonings... something about salt levels being too high!
Even without the accompanying four wines (hell, it might have been five!) we would have had a great evening. Peppers, tomatoes and anchovies for starters; spicy chicken with fragrant, fruity rice to follow; chestnut roulade or tiramisu to wind up food proceedings - and, of course, a fine old catch up on news and views. We judged the moment when verbal expression and comprehension were becoming things of the past due to exceeding the prescribed amount of alcohol and repaired to our beds for sound sleep.
Barry and Jayne are not too concerned about bookings so I'm not putting any of their contact details here. If they tell me otherwise, I'll revise this post and link to their website.
In the meantime, I'll leave you with a small section of the glorious garden which greets us each time we step outside.

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June 2015 - France: Friday 12th

June 16, 2015 / Geoff Griffiths

All in order and ready for take-off. A mid morning ferry crossing meant that we could have a fairly relaxed breakfast before bidding farewell to our most loved and respected wrinkly hosts. The M25 was a curve of kindness, with heavier traffic going West on the other side. One small highlight before reaching Dover; the carefully printed words taped to the rear end of a heavy truck - LEFT HANDED DRIVER. The Victorians would never have allowed that to happen!

The ferry is my first chance to revisit conversational French. I usually cement the entente cordiale with a condemnation of the quality of coffee being served but this time I simply teased a steward who was handing out the company's magazine. She went to great pains to assure me that its title was 'Traversée' and not the mischievous 'Travesti' which I suggested. My search for a publication on cross-dressing continues!

Calais needs exploring properly to reveal its charms. However, we simply made for the A16 and headed towards Rouen and then Chartres. I always marvel at the familiarity of road signs, landmarks and the names of motorway services. We have travelled in France each year for more than twenty years. Whatever our route, something seems to ring a bell.

Our last taste of home was eaten at lunchtime. Mrs. Cheoff had made splendid filled buns. I'm sure they would have been almost as good without my homemade chutneys! Along the autoroute we made deposits in one well-appointed Villeroy and Boch toilet and in one daunting 'Tunnel of doom' squatter before negotiating the one-way streets of medieval Chartres first time and arriving at 'Maison Ailleurs'.

Valérie presented a delightful afternoon tea table. More of her talents were to come.

Mrs. Cheoff is the sine qua non of holiday researchers and planners. She has a sixth sense for quality which discards swathes of possible B&Bs and gites on seeing a single untoward website photo. This does mean that we end up in some rather smashing accommodation so I just go with the flow and tag along. It's possible that my wife is ne plus ultra in this respect but that would be giving my English rose a little too much Latin temperament, methinks! ;)

We ate out. I won't dwell on our meal. Perhaps a review of our disappointment might appear in time. The evening ended well with a stroll around the darkening streets, stopping to view lighting effects on buildings and landmarks, including the cathedral.

We were guaranteed a restful night in our lovely room. See you in the morning!

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June 2015 - France: Thursday 11th

June 14, 2015 / Geoff Griffiths

Not much of great excitement with this, my first log of our annual French experience. Bear with me - I'll try to inject incredibly interesting content as these reports continue to come in.

On this first day Mrs. Cheoff and I made our way down to softie Southern English haunts to my family home. There, after a spot of gardening in support of a willing but understandably age-challenged step-father we were treated to the efforts of my equally challenged Mum who, at eighty-seven, is just two months younger than her present partner in life. She had planned and reserved enough energy to prepare a chicken, chorizo and red pepper delight which really deserves a recipe here!

In other words, we get royally treated by two lovely people who totally give the lie to any suggestion that age might wither or dim them. Terrific value for money... no charge! (There is, of course, an unwritten rule that a bottle of Armagnac is unpacked from our 'souvenirs' on returning)

With magnificent foresight I had arranged for a brand new, shiny coffee bean order to be delivered. As you must know, the coffee available across the Channel is largely of a dodgy nature. Best to be prepared. My espresso machine and grinder were already packed - so please don't fear for the quality of my brews while abroad.

This picture shows my choices arrayed in French sunshine.

But I'm getting ahead of myself. I'll leave you secure in the knowledge that we are safely arrived just over an hour from Dover. Our journey, and this blog, will continue next time.

A bientot

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Lamb... Lovely, Lovely Lamb

June 10, 2015 / Geoff Griffiths

"I've prepared this rack of lamb for you, Cheoff... what will you do with it?"
When your favourite, trusted local butcher gives you that sort of problem it's time to rise to the challenge.

Blitzing breadcrumbs, chopped chives and salt and pepper in a food processor gave me a good handful of herb crust for the surface of the rack.

My oven was already on at 180 degrees. I decided to trim the very thin skin from the fat layer. It's fairly unnecessary but that's how I roll. The fat was scored in a criss-cross pattern. The herb crumb was ready but is used later.

The meat is seared in a hot pan with a little rapeseed oil, fat side down first. After five minutes, turn and brown the other side. Attend to the ends with a little careful manoeuvring - those bones help here. Remove the meat but leave all the fats and sticky brown bits in the pan. I wanted two distinct treatments here. One of the racks was spread with a generous tablespoon of English mustard.

Turning the mustard-coated meat onto the crumbs left their imprint. The plain and treated meats then go into the heated oven for 15 minutes. An extra five minutes will give you more well done rather than the 'pink' which I prefer.

Removed from the oven, the meat was wrapped in foil and left to rest. The slices were cut at least ten minutes later when all had relaxed and tenderised.

Back to that pan! Put it on the heat again and sprinkle in a couple of tablespoons of plain flour. Stir that around until it takes on a bit of colour and then de-glaze with a glass of white wine, stirring all the time. Add chicken stock until you have a light but slightly thicker gravy. Do use port, red wine or spoonfuls of redcurrant jelly if you wish. My fruity element would come from something else on the plate. Reduce the gravy if it isn't as thick as you like and strain if necessary.

Baby potatoes were boiled and drained, seasoned and crushed at the last minute. I'd prepared some courgettes, broad beans, leeks and carrots earlier by cooking them only long enough to begin to soften. They were plunged into cold water and drained until needed. When the gravy was prepared I put the vegetables in a pan with a tablespoon each of water and butter. They were heated just enough for eating but not so much to cook them further.

The lamb was unwrapped and carved into portions... time to plate up! I got a little precious with this one and drew a diagram which I am prepared to share with you. The crayon work was added after the meal.

This dish gave an ideal opportunity to bring out my Nettle & Mint Sauce. It didn't quite hold its emulsified circular shape long enough for the photo shoot... must work on that! The main thing is that, even though I got a bit distracted with prissy presentation, the food tasted pretty amazing.

The Damson Jelly used is actually the very wonderful Diana Henry's Damson Cheese recipe. I make this every year around September when damsons are ready. Terrific with cheeses, it stores well and was a great fruity addition to this meal.

Of course, second helpings were so messy that you won't be seeing any photos!

It's always great to have some leftovers. I'm gradually becoming more of a fan of cold lamb and it went down very well as a lunchtime snack two days later.

I was pleased with the look of the meal but, as ever, proof was in the eating. Giving the vegetables a simple, light touch left the meat as the rightful centrepiece. Going from the field to the plate with collaboration from an excellent butcher and a very enthusiastic cook, this lamb offered a rich reward of flavour.

Cooking this for a loved one would make it even more special - but this sort of meal probably needs your attention during a fairly undisturbed afternoon. How you cope with the compliments after eating is entirely up to you!

I admit to a bit of guilt over the cutlet frills below. Butcher, Graham, donated them specially and all I can show him is a photo proving I did nothing with them. Sorry, Graham... but I will dare to show my face again. I'd be nuts to pass up the prospect of more great produce!

I'm rounding off with a spot more confessional. Those neat damson jelly cylinders (and various elements which I add to other plates) are cut using a guilt-laden acquisition. Many years ago in a student job at a local essence factory I came across a box of cork borers. They were surreptitiously removed and taken home at the end of one day... I believe the local constabulary might well have described this as a bit of nicking :/

Beautifully engineered, they are a rather naughty addition to my kitchen tools. The factory site is now a housing estate - so I comfort myself and fend off self-recrimination with the thought that I have preserved a historical artefact for posterity!

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Risotto: Supplemental

June 05, 2015 / Geoff Griffiths

Mrs. Cheoff is back on form! Not content with recovering from her temporary malaise, she has taken over the menu planning big-time. A week after her comforting courgette risotto she suggested a different version with smoked haddock. When Mrs. Cheoff gets suggestive I normally just lay back and think of England... not before sourcing the necessary ingredients, of course!

This one involved another trip to my Man Thursday, Dean and his fish van. I haven't bought the traditional turmeric painted yellow smoked haddock for years but I thought it would add some interesting colour to this dish.

After a bit of internetting I came up with this mash-up. Remember that my meal was for two and adjust accordingly for your needs. You might well recognise a small amount of Jamie Oliver influence:

200g risotto rice (Carnaroli for me this time)

750ml vegetable stock

1 small chopped onion

40g butter

75ml vodka

400g smoked haddock

500ml milk

1 bay leaf

100g frozen peas

1 tablespoonful of chopped fresh tarragon

Things are well under way here. The stock is warming under gentle heat; the onion has been softened but not browned in the butter and the rice added until glistening; smoked haddock is poaching with the milk and bay leaf.

The vodka goes in with the onions and rice - stir until most is absorbed and the alcohol is driven off. Then add ladlefuls of vegetable stock and do the stirring thing which starts to break down the surface of the rice grains.

Take a break and rescue the smoked haddock. Flake it into generous pieces and set aside. Do not discard the milk!

The rice gets a couple more ladles of stock and from then on you add the milk instead. Keep stirring, thinking of England or (infinitely preferable) listen to Cooker #2 or Cooker #3

Your judgement here - don't expect me to do all the work for you! Around twenty minutes in add the peas and smoked haddock pieces and stir with more milk, as needed, until you have softened rice with a little central bite.

Add the chopped tarragon and you are ready to eat. Fish and cheese is a bit of a no-no - so no-no to Parmesan with this one.

I added some walnut oil and chopped walnuts to some of my wholemeal dough this week. The resultant 'cob' was an ideal partner to the risotto.

Looks good, doesn't it... it was! ;)

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"Letter 'C' Is For..."

June 01, 2015 / Geoff Griffiths

A few weeks ago JaySon2* messaged and asked for a copy of something from the ‘Poppy Book’, our collection of notes, cuttings and print-outs of tried and tested recipes. He wanted to bake some treats for his work colleagues and knew he could rely on this one to make the right impression.

So much can be assembled and stored electronically but it’s very comforting to have access to a few real pieces of paper which have become family friends over the years. Some are dishevelled, dirty and smelly enough to count as actual family members!

The particular recipe being requested was for the cookies which I started making almost ten years ago when I was fending off the cup-cake craziness which was trending at the time.

I had printed off an Annabel Karmel recipe from BBC Good Food and it's been used very regularly - just a couple of hours notice that someone is popping round for a chat means that you have time to treat them to these on arrival. The closest recipe is now available on Annabel's site as she appears to have taken most of her work away from Auntie Beeb. You will need to join and log in for access. If that doesn't suit, an internet search will reveal loads of ideas. Choose one which tickles your taste buds' fancy. Mine contains no oaty element.

These 'White Chocolate and Cranberry Cookies' follow on the same lines as most recipes. Butter, sugars, flour and eggs are your base. Baking powder, salt and vanilla essence get added here and, in this case, the chocolate is white and the fruit is dried and cranberried. Go your own way but be assured that you will end up with a batch of goodness which might seriously test your restraint!

There will be weighing, creaming, blending, folding, stirring and adding of various quantities of various ingredients. None of the processes is demanding unless your butter is not quite soft enough. This could lead to the recurrence of an old tennis war-wound such as my strained shoulder muscle... ouch! All in a good cause.

Once you have made the cookie dough you must decide on the size of your final product. My preference is for the more generous dimensions that supermarkets sell in bags of five. Therefore, I have never restricted mine to suggestions of walnut-sized lumps of dough. My balls are the size of large plums (Editor will surely revise that before publication!) Make sure there is room for relaxed expansion when placing them on a parchment covered baking tray.

The one thing you need when it's time to bake is a little bravado. Well, you do, as far as I'm concerned. That's because I like my cookies with 'squidge'. This means that the baking tray is removed from the oven before you think, believe or have any faith whatsoever that the cookies are baked! I still struggle to follow that advice but it does the trick every time. The surface is still very soft to the touch but will change to a thin sugary crust as it cools. The base should appear utterly half-baked and only just release from the parchment. After a while this resolves into the sort of texture which is close enough to eating raw cookie dough without feeling any guilt.

It depends how you like your steak really. If you have experimented with rare, medium and oops I've incinerated it, I'm sure you can achieve the cookie equivalent! Whatever your results, you will have sweet, sticky goodness of some sort to enjoy.

Oh... if there are others in the house, it might be a great idea to leave your cookies on the cooling rack for the shortest time possible! ;)

*JaySon... the numeral will tell you to which of our two initial ‘J’ sons I’m referring! Pleased, but hardly surprised, to say that his efforts were very well received next day at work.

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A Quick One, While She's Away!

May 30, 2015 / Geoff Griffiths

The ‘She’ of my title refers to my wife. Please don’t take offence… I am very well aware of the tutting which ensues over the likes of ‘The Other Half’, ‘Er indoors’, ‘The old trout’ and any number of terribly dismissive terms which are too often given to dearly loved partners. I will immediately revert to the all-enveloping ‘Mrs. Cheoff’ which is used here as a veil of relative anonymity and, of course, for tax-dodging purposes!

Last week these words formed the basis for this post: “Just have whatever you fancy for lunch… I’m off with a friend for a double birthday celebration and catch-up.” We spend huge amounts of our life together but when Mrs. Cheoff is otherwise occupied I take full advantage.

The solo lunch was needed for Thursday… Thursday morning being Dean’s Fish Van Day, I walked the six hundred metres to my maritime meals supply unit with purpose and a little excitement. It was my chance to have something with which Mrs. Cheoff might struggle. A Grimsby (Grimsby; once ‘the largest fishing port in the world) lass, she has a fish preference for haddock alone!

I found myself coming away with what I’d had in mind more or less before setting out… a lovely filleted mackerel.

All was set for my midday indulgence… once I’d fired up the barbecue!

While the coals were getting to temperature I whisked up a marinade of

Zest and juice from one lime

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 tablespoon mirin

1 finely chopped green chilli

1 tablespoon olive oil

(add sugar if the mirin doesn’t add enough sweetness for you)

The mackerel was laid in the marinade and turned over after ten minutes.

I had already parboiled some slices of baby potatoes and these would be the only accompaniment to the fish. They were finished off by flashing around in a little olive oil until golden.

The coals were now fit for work and after a generous grind of pepper the mackerel began its final journey across the grill. I'm a coward when it comes to delicate fish so this one was neatly trapped in a sausage cage!

Some of the marinade was drizzled over during a sizzling, smoky seven(minutes)-a-side cooking.

The sun made a timely appearance and shone its rays on the remnants of my meal in what I can only imagine was a mark of respect. I had certainly grasped my opportunity. Those bones would have made Mrs. Cheoff shudder. I was happy to allow them to slow down my progress through one of the tastiest and most enjoyable of lunches I've taken alone. All cooking smells were dispersed outdoors and all the evidence below was in an outside bin before 'The one who wears the trousers'... MRS. CHEOFF (!) returned. ;)

Lovely stuff - all the better for being a very occasional delight. One which will be repeated if I can encourage someone to go out and leave me alone on her next birthday! ;)

What?... Oh, please... you surely don't have to ask! Yes, as soon as I took the first photographs of that splendid mackerel I knew perfectly well how all this would finish. So, this is for one and all - the doubters and those who know me so well!

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