14 Upgate,
Louth, Lincolnshire
Visited for dinner, 8 November 2017
Social media does continue to show its positives every now and then. Casually following a link on Facebook, I found myself looking at the 14 Upgate website and wondering why such an interesting, and interestingly close restaurant had not come to my notice before.
There are no starred restaurants in northern Lincolnshire but 14 Upgate is in good company and gets a ‘Michelin Plate’. That is the same accolade as ‘Winteringham Fields’ and three other establishments in the 2018 Michelin Guide.
Tasting menus only are available here. Four courses are offered on a Wednesday evening and six for the following three nights. Suggestions of a healthy work/life balance there.
We booked. On a Wednesday for three people. That was mildly unusual but Mum was staying and we wanted to include her in a paid-for meal which could either be put down to experience or would encourage more visits.
Seasoned restaurateur Andrew Leonard is Front of House. In fact he is Front of Everything except the kitchen which is the domain of Michael Bullamore. Andrew guided us upstairs for pre-dinner drinks. The wine list offers ‘usual suspects’ and some interesting alternatives, all at sensible prices. The first tastes of chef’s food came along as canapés.
Carrot Jerky, Mint Yoghurt.
Much more forgiving in texture than meat jerky, the carrot retained its sweetness. Minty yoghurt was a good, mildly sour foil.
Fish Nuggets & Our Own Tomato Ketchup.
We should all make a version of this in our own kitchens as a crowd-pleasing ‘nibble’. Christmas is imminent as I write and will provide a good excuse for doing just that. Although almost any homemade ketchup is going to satisfy, this Louth recipe was lovely and counted as our first suggestion that chef knows very well what he is about.
Downstairs again for our meal.
Malted Grain Bread & Butter.
The absence of good bread can let the side down. No let-down here.
Celeriac & Apple, Pistachios, Louth Cured Pancetta.
Warm up the flavours of a Waldorf Salad? Why not if it works this well. Flavour and texture were very satisfying and the warmth of the base elements slowly melted the pancetta fat into something even richer and more indulgent than any cold mayonnaise dressing.
Leeks, Brown Shrimp, Hazelnut & Lemon Butter.
At a push you could categorise this as ‘Surf & Turf’. The leek, of course, was a much less intensively farmed product than the usual meat element but animal fats were not needed to provide any more flavour. Again, the ingredients had been understood, valued and combined to give so much more than might have been expected. Sweet leeks were charred just enough to offer a balancing bitterness. Shrimps held on to a suggestion of the sea and lemon was pulled back so as not to overpower anything. If I had to pick a favourite from the evening this was it.
