Cheoff

A site about food, drink and other random stuff!

Smoked Salmon Tart

If you want something that is full of flavour and is adaptable to make for a starter, light lunch or main course then go here: Smoked Salmon Tart - Delia Online

Delia is reliable as ever with this recipe although I'd add just one thing; you can get cheap packs of salmon trimmings from most supermarkets but I'd recommend treating yourself or guests and buying a superior supply of fish - the added flavour and texture is worth the extra expense.

You can see a batch here that I baked at the end of summer. Mostly individual tartlets with one larger tin for picnics or lunch at home. The 9 and a half inch was left in the drawer on this day. If you don't have smaller tins then just bake the large one for slicing in generous or dainty portions depending on need. The case certainly does shrink while cooking so chilling the pastry is essential to limit that.

Well on the way

You need to know the particular vagaries of your oven and how accurate the temperatures are. The main thing is to stop cooking the filling as soon as there's a nice 'spring' to the surface. Taken any further you'll have firm and chewy instead of soft and forgiving.

Baked and cooled

The scalloped edge versions were used as a starter. My only addition was a dob of mustard mayonnaise and a sprig of accidental dill which grew next to our garden tomatoes this year. Finely grated horseradish, softened with a teaspoon of hot water is another good partner for the mayo.

Serving suggestion

The fats in the pastry mix and the egg wash before baking make for a great crisp texture which is not threatened by the filling. I let the tarts cool slightly before serving. They freeze well but, if you've done that, just letting them return to room temperature is preferable to re-heating.

There's no real salmon season so this is an all year round treat. I'll certainly be making some for Christmas - maybe in mini muffin tins for a delicious canape mouthful!

Cheoff, will you bake this cake - forsaking all others...

Lovely things, weddings...

After thirty plus years my brother, Paul, and his small-but-perfectly-formed soul-mate, Marie, decided to get married last April.

Prior to impending nuptials, during a relaxed dinner here, Marie introduced a note of tension by saying, “We’d like you to do the cake.”... Gulp!

This was probably on the strength of the cake I'd produced for my bro's 60th - but that had an audience of just six!

O.I.C... Orkney Islands Council

There were all sorts of contradictory thoughts as my wife, Jan, and I weighed up the immense compliment we’d been paid against the huge burden of responsibility which lay upon us as we said we’d be delighted.

Paul and Marie then lived a dual existence, sharing time between their Islington house and a beautifully converted crofter’s cottage on Papa Westray, one of the smallest islands in Orkney (the cottage beautifully converted by my talented and creative brother). The island trip is now mandatory for brotherly hugs since the London property is currently rented out for a truly vulgar sum of money. Seven months ago the wedding would be the final grand occasion in N7 for some time.

Closer to the great day, Jan and Marie sat at our computer screen viewing sugar paste Gerbera decorations which we thought might not be beyond our capabilities to reproduce for the cake top. Paul entered and gave his input... "Nah, we don't want flowers!"

He was right, of course. It was Jan who hit on a London/Papay theme which was enthusiastically received - all we had to do now was interpret it... armed with the complete lack of experience which makes such tasks the stuff of palpitations and increased bowel movements. This was going to be a more personal expression which reflected the two very different places which meant so much to the happy couple.

Deep, spicy and fruity... that's Delia for you!

The cake itself was reasonably straightforward with an extra-large edition of Delia's 'Classic Christmas Cake' forming the base to a regular size 7 inch square.

All sorts of ideas swirled round before Jan and I set to in the springtime light of our conservatory to begin the decoration.

Puffins had been requested. They are a regular feature of Papa Westray's fauna. I started squishing sugar paste into shape and had an unusual moment of inspiration. Paul, the ukelele player, Marie and her rabbit, Bob... Marie, Rabbit, Puffins, Paul... Hmmm.

Puffins, Paul and Marie were now melded into a cake-topping bride and groom. (Puffins, Paul and Marie also recorded the classic 'Leaving On A Jet Plane', of course!)

Other elements were needed for the island-life section so I continued to develop my sculpting skills. Puffins love to catch sand eels. This fact contributes to one of my brother's favourite jokes. Hence the pair of brown 'sandeels' which I shaped along with other shoreline regulars... gnaah, groan!

Pleased with my efforts, I looked across at Jan's chosen task - the skyline of London, the Nag's Head Market and Islington's terraced houses. Pretty damned fine effort there, I'd say!

You're seeing the fruits of nearly four days work. Breaking off only to create the occasional three hour Sonos playlist to soundtrack our endeavour, we finally decided when enough was enough and pushed, pressed and pasted the whole thing together.

London side

Papay side

Our fears about getting the finished cake safely to London were totally unfounded. It was greeted with universal acclaim and we tried desperately to convince everyone that we'd never done anything like it before. Paul and Marie reserved the top for celebrating with their island community and still refer to our offering as a highlight of their special day.

We used friendly advice, local libraries and online help to achieve our goal but all of the recipes and instructions missed out the one thing which we added in abundance... our love.

You can't make anything as important as a cake without love, can you.


A spot of TripAdvisor to and fro

I admit it... I occasionally get an alert saying, "Congratulations, Geoff, your review has been published on TripAdvisor". You must have worked out that I could fairly easily be described as an extrovert. Now that doesn't mean I can't be a shrinking violet if the occasion demands but restaurant reviews often creep in as one form of expression which redresses the balance.

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We do reference the site for all sorts of information. Half the fun is in sorting out the emotive inputs from the objective, practical ones. My comments are as honest as I can make them. If I do praise, recommend or censure I am perfectly happy for the readership to discard anything I've said... like I sometimes do with others! There's no substitute for going and finding out yourself - but it's good to access firm warnings to avoid costly mistakes or see high praise which encourages a visit.

Here I'm sharing one of my most recent efforts from TripAdvisor (truly, there aren't that many of them!)

From the title you'll gather that The Star Inn at Harome was a good experience...

Accomplished, honest cooking - smashing!

We live within a couple of hours’ travel from Harome. Having tried for a mid-day snack here years ago while we were passing and giving up because the place was so packed, we always intended returning.

We successfully booked for lunch on our thirty-eighth wedding anniversary… only to find on arrival that we had been trumped completely by a couple a few tables away who had made their vows sixty years ago!

The unusual flat cap bread basket became totally secondary once we had tasted its oven-baked goodness. The black pudding rolls were my particular favourite.

‘Cured Hartlepool Landed Octopus with ‘Mollet’ Norfolk Quail Eggs, Deep-fried Anchovies, Black Olive Sorbet, Marinated Vegetables’
This was just utterly lovely. Every ingredient was treated with perfection. The vegetables had such a light touch that they might have been the stars of the show. However, the black olive sorbet picked up on the sea-life elements and became a subtle, salty ‘rock-pool’ backdrop to their fishiness. Wonderful.

‘Homemade Village Shot Roe Deer ‘Sausage’ with Pickled Red Cabbage Purée, Pontefract Cake and Pommery Mustard Seeds’
My wife enjoyed this a great deal. Liquorice is often a dangerous plate-fellow but could have been even more insistent here before going into Bassetts AllSorts territory. Meat and one veg in harmony.

‘Cutlet of Ryedale Lamb with its own Faggot, Lowna Dairy Cheese, Smoked Ratatouille-style Vegetables, Oregano Confit Tomato’
Perfectly cooked lamb… that is always a good start. With the cheese ‘lurking’ in the faggot and all vegetables, rather like the chef, on top of their game, this was another delight for my wife.

‘Barbecued Venison, Slice of Giant Puffball with Cobnuts, Rainbow Chard, Elderberry Juices’
No letting up here. On a warm summer day this dish could have edged towards autumnal heartiness. However, it was given the sort of consideration that planted it firmly in the realm of a bright and light season - well before any need for the serious business of pickling or preserving. The meat had been rescued from the coals at the perfect moment and every one of its plate partners gave texture, flavour and colour in abundance. Elderberry was left as a suggestion of thin, fruity, blood-hued meat juices. This decision was just right. A thicker, more syrupy reduction would have carried everything towards a later season.

The vegetable selection was almost unnecessary but, again, the cooking made it irresistible.

‘Iced Garden Lemon Balm Parfait ‘Sandwich’ with our own ‘Alpine’ Strawberries, Homemade Lemonade’
This was my wife’s selection and provided an eye-catching and palate pleasing end to her meal; very clean and light. It also determined me to include ‘Melissa officinalis’ in our garden planting next year!

‘Caramelised Rice Pudding with Sugar’d Skin, Homegrown Blackcurrant ‘Jam’, Deep-fried Apple Pie Custard Doughnut’
This could be considered as an inevitable nod to the passage of time, acknowledging cooler months and demand for heavier puddings. There is a distinct possibility that I made the wrong choice here but it didn’t match the heights of the rest of our meal. The crystallised or candied mint leaves were certainly lack-lustre, having lost any vibrancy. It was still as good as many offerings elsewhere and there had been so much previous excellence that it really didn’t matter that much.

Since we were both on driving duty, we allowed ourselves one glass of wine each. The choice is terrific and we easily found a suitable white and red.

Prices for this quality of cooking are more than reasonable. Ours was a quiet mid-week booking. The old part of the restaurant is intimate and slightly quirky. There are higher ceilings and more modern livery is installed nearer the kitchen. Service was attentive, responsive and informative. After eating, we explored more of the venue’s potential for larger occasions with family or friends. The lovely garden revealed some of the ingredients for our meal.

Were we suitably distracted from the intoxicating love which has developed between us? Indeed we were. Did we identify a reason to return? No… we found countless excuses to visit again very soon!

Michelin be damned… the Star at Harome still shines!
Picture from: http://www.thestaratharome.co.uk/star_accomm.htm

Picture from: http://www.thestaratharome.co.uk/star_accomm.htm

What I failed to include in my review was the fact that chef-owner, Andrew Pern, was not cooking on the day of our meal. I'll give belated congratulations to his well-trained, talented 'substitute'. Andrew did, however, contribute to the experience a few weeks later when TripAdvisor posted this:

StarInnHarome, Owner at Star Inn, responded to this review, 9 September 2014

Maybe I should ask you to write the foreword to my next book!!! Although with a review that long, you could be the author! I am glad you managed to dine with us and a very happy belated anniversary to you. Maybe you should stay with us next time!

Thank you for all of your great comments and we hope to welcome you back very soon.

Kind regards

Andrew Pern

Andrew's compliment was mildly diluted by his astute identification of my reckless word-count but I intend standing firm there. Perhaps my stubborn motto should be: "Write nothing that you wouldn't want to read yourself."?

Obviously I'd recommend a visit to Harome's number one restaurant - then you can check out my opinion and their lovely food at the same time!

Ah... I've just visited The Star Inn Home Page and found out that they have regained their Michelin star for 2015. Great stuff! I don't think it will make much difference to the excellence provided there but it's pleasing to hear of renewed recognition for their efforts.

As for me, I'll continue to pontificate and review. It's fun to contribute and fun to soak up the community offerings. If, like me, you don't treat it too seriously you might use TripAdvisor for a bit of diversion... see you there!

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