Smoked Haddock, Mild Potato Curry and Poached Egg

James Martin has this recipe over at the Auntie Beeb food website but it first appears in 'Rick Stein's Fruits of the Sea'. For my instructions I rely on a 'Chef's Club' card from Tesco which I picked up about fifteen years ago.

View fullsize

Smoked haddock asks for a little less urgency with immediate cooking than fresh, raw fish but, as usual, the main ingredient here was bought at 'Deep-Sea' Dean's fish van only this morning before I made it tonight for the umpteenth time.

Use that  recipe card picture or the online link. They give you the words to read and follow. I'll not do much else other than offer helpful photos of my own efforts to prod you in to having a go.

View fullsize

Mustard seeds, onion and turmeric... potatoes next... joined by tomatoes and coriander

A fairly relaxed process here. There is plenty of opportunity to let elements of this dish rest during cooking. The eggs are the only last minute thing which need cooking and serving straight away.

View fullsize

Haddock and eggs are treated very gently

Mustard seeds and turmeric give just the right amount of their own woody, smoky heat without overpowering the fish. You must decide how much coriander to add. I know that choice is in the realms of a 'Marmite' debate. The egg is a perfect foil to the rest. The white has a neutral, balancing, calming quality before the yolk is broken and lends a rich, luxurious coating of sauce. 

View fullsize

This is a simple dish with all the elements of comfort food. But, as Rick Stein says, it has an underlying sophistication which adds that extra layer of enjoyment.

Menu

Good friends are on their way to us next week for food and a bit of a catch-up. As usual, I’ve been checking through my file which records previous offerings to our invited guests so that I can ring the changes (or repeat a sound favourite).

In the file was something which I wanted to quickly share with you. I don’t always formalise my menus with a document but this one was prepared for another couple of friends. It says much more about how my mind operates than it does about actual events.

Having said that, every single item which I carefully Microsoft Worded and then prepared made an appearance on the night except for the very final one. Mrs. Cheoff has the eyes of a hawk and can squeeze a scrotum harder than a worry ball. If truth be told, I’m a Scorpio and thus far too jealous and faithful to consider any dalliance outside of marriage.

Here is the document. Sorry, no prices… I’ve never felt competent or cheeky enough to operate commercially.

It’s still perfectly possible that we had more fun on the evening in question than you will have reading this.

View fullsize

... it didn't happen (Your Honour)

Now you’ll have to excuse me while I concoct and finalise culinary diversions for next week’s guests.

July 2015 - Everything in the Garden...

You should have already seen some evidence of home produce in my cooking here and on my Instagram page. This post will provide a bit of background to how I get my hands dirty in a perfectly legal way.

This is the point in the year when Mrs. Cheoff and I begin to see the results of early spring efforts in our garden. The three raised beds on the right of my picture were built in 2010 and were augmented by a couple more on the left in 2012. The narrow border along one side fence pictured further down has had various plantings through the years before being defined with scaffolding planks like the rest of the plots two years ago. There is not a huge amount of space for growing but that means I don’t have to fret for too long since any failures cover very little ground.

View fullsize

View fullsize

An allotment would be lovely but I still remember the back ache and sore hip which accompanied the preparatory work five years ago. Small and contained will do for me. Supported exercise in a swimming pool seems kinder and I still seem to get plentiful reward from gentle effort in the garden. The balance is right as far as I'm concerned.

View fullsize

View fullsize

The picture of the long border was taken only last week so it's clear that the runner beans are way behind schedule. Most of them are replanted after a slug or snail attack on the first set of seedlings. It looks like there are enough established now to give us fresh pickings, a few blanched and frozen extras as well as providing one element of the 2015 Piccalilli. Mrs. Cheoff was more than dubious about growing runner beans but young, tender, straight from the garden and lightly cooked has converted her.

The planting has varied only slightly over the years. No sweet corn, peppers, aubergines or squash this season (so far) and broad beans will be bought elsewhere, blanched, prissily peeled and frozen. 

We just have a couple of four tier plastic covered shelters to protect sowings and seedlings. Without a proper greenhouse most of our crop is late to develop. That does have the advantage that most plants stand a fair chance of missing any frosts. We had to completely re-sow the carrot bed last year after heavy rains. Still, we adapt if we can and always end up beaming stupidly at any of our eventual successes

I don’t feel particularly qualified to give any tips on sensible choices or techniques, much less discuss anything like considerations for different soil types. I am too inexperienced to offer advice except for the obvious one… if I can do it, anyone can.

We use neighbours, local garden centres and the internet for advice. Five years in, and we are blissful in knowing almost bugger all about what we are doing. We remain quite happy to allow nature to take its often delightfully successful course.

The vegetables offer a pleasing structure to the garden, according to their growing habit. Ornamental, flowering plants are slowly getting a look-in. Tubs of Californian poppies are on the way but those nasturtiums are already giving a spot of complementary colour to the overall green hues while attracting any black fly away from edible crops. Ah, and a Cabbage White was laying her eggs on the leaves just yesterday.

Herbs are closest to the kitchen door. There are a few alpines and flowering plants creeping in to the next picture but for the most part it’s a collection of ready-to-snip greenery. You might identify basil, oregano, dill, mint, sage, lavender, chives, tarragon, parsley and thyme. Even if these aren’t cut for meals, any trip outside is likely to involve a gentle rub of leaves or flowers to unleash their lovely fragrance.

View fullsize

The truly great thing about any green-fingered success is that it is there, a few footsteps from the back door. Those large courgette leaves often hide a sudden burst of activity which, once identified, is under consideration for a meal which will be made just hours, maybe even minutes, later.

Being a keen cook, having access to the freshest ingredients is a must. All the following gave healthy enjoyment to meals after a maximum journey of fifteen metres. Well, all right, that wine does have a few air-miles attached.

View fullsize

This year's  tomato plants have set their trusses but I'm impatiently waiting to use their fully ripe fruits in another month or two. Let's hope they are even half as good as these from last year.  

View fullsize

The only negative aspect of all this could be the careful consideration and attendant worry that must be given to our 'babies' when we abandon them for holidays and breaks. So I'll finish with a fanfare of heartfelt thanks to Jenny over the road who has her own magnificent flower garden but always seems very happy to feed and water our surrogate children until our return.

I've Already Done "We're Jammin'", Haven't I...

Hey, some things are worth repeating. In truth, this post will reflect the season and the fresh vibrant fruits that are now in abundance. Spicy and meaty was for March… July is juicy.

We haven’t set up our small garden to grow enough crops to fill anything like the number of jars which are needed to satisfy our wants and the extras which will be given as home-made gifts through the year. Luckily, PYO signs are all over our part of Lincolnshire - and most likely wherever you are if you’re reading this in the same British summer. Last week we made our first picking trip and returned with a few kilos of strawberries and raspberries.

View fullsize

A journey to the loft produced enough matching jars and lids to accommodate the estimated yield. They were washed and sterilised and the fruit prepared for jam and jelly.

This is the time when I turn to a trusted friend for encouragement and advice. Diana Henry has written enough to sustain all our weekly cooking in an adventurous and delicious way through many years. I’ll admit other influences but she provides the foundation for many of my exploits in the kitchen. I naturally turned to the jam section in her ‘salt sugar smoke’ for post-strawberry-picking guidance.

I made two of the three recipes on her double-page strawberry spread.

View fullsize

Ah, right… you thought you were in for a spot of copyright flouting and a splendid freebie. If you think I’m going to remove those strawberries, think again. All I will add is that Diana Henry’s wisdom is readily available to you just as soon as you purchase your very own copy of her book. For balance, let it be known that I have yet to buy two of her books. Am I that terrible difference between a devotee and a fanatic?

I have admitted other influences. My raspberries were used in a simple, tried and trusted (and readily available) recipe from Allotment Garden.

View fullsize

Of course, I always have a bit of creative angst over the appearance of my labels. I refuse to resort to computerised printing and each jar ends up with a unique hand-written effort.

View fullsize

There will soon be further forays to fill baskets with blackberries, gooseberries and blackcurrants. The satisfaction of preserving some of an abundant but fleeting harvest is irresistible. The sugar needed to stabilise fruits can create something closer to the contents of sweetshop shelves and I use less and less of it in many recipes. The delight is that, even with a fifty/fifty mix, six months later the fruit is still clever enough to remind you of its acid but fragrant attack which greeted you in the field while you picked it. Don't waste your opportunity. Gather your harvest over the next few weeks and turn it into comfort for the year to come.

No apologies for the lack of recipes here. There are so many lovely ideas to explore in your bookshops or on the internet that I don't intend confusing the issue by pushing you in any particular direction (well, seeking out Diana Henry won't do any harm).  Keep your equipment spotless and enjoy the fruits of your labour.

Smoked Salmon Pasta and an Accidental Herb

The introduction to one of my favourite books on medieval art begins with this: "There is luck in artistic creation, no less than in scientific discovery." I will not linger on the argument which might ensue if we examine those words. Instead, let me show you the luck which prompted a lovely recent meal.

View fullsize

Trespassers will be...

The appearance of fronds of dill in unexpected places has been a feature of our garden for at least a couple of years now. Some of it is pulled out and consigned to the compost bin (whence it most likely spreads into the garden again). Returning from our French holiday, a fine specimen growing in the carrot bed could not be ignored. Eventually I will take some to add distinctive flavour to New York deli style pickles but its first use was in a quick, full of flavour, summery dinner (oh, yes, that's 'tea' to all my Facebook friends from Yorkshire).

This deserves some reasonably decent slices of smoked salmon. Trimmings or bog standard supermarket offerings can be left for something else. For two people you'll need 120 grams of something which has had a touch of oak, whisky, beech or beetroot (you agonise on that one). Roughly cut or tear it and set aside for a few minutes.  Beat together two egg yolks, 100 ml of double cream and a good grind of black pepper. Dill goes in to this mix - a good handful pulled from the thicker stalks. I thought it needed a few herby mates and chopped a bit of basil and oregano as well.

View fullsize

I don't frown on cheese with fish (haddock rarebit is a favourite) but here I decided against a grating of Parmesan or the like. 

You are near to completion if you have chosen fresh pasta. Dry or fresh, you need about 90 grams per person. Penne was my choice. I have more important things in my life which will stop me knocking on your door in dismay if you choose a different variety. Cook in plenty of boiling salted water. One last gift from our garden was added a minute before the pasta was ready. The snap peas had produced their first pods and just had to be given a walk-on part at the very least.

The peas and pasta are drained BUT you must reserve a ladle of the hot liquor. Tip the pasta and peas back into the pan and add the cream, egg and herb mix as well as that patiently waiting fish. Pour in enough water from the ladle and stir to make a sauce which coats everything. 

View fullsize

Unless you fancy a little crusty bread for extra texture and bulk, you're there. Dill is a fairly insistent flavour but goes well in this combination. This dish sings of grassy green goodness from the herbs which lighten the indulgent fish and creamy sauce.

View fullsize

No real luck needed here and it will be ready in a much shorter time than any true artistic creation requires. You will, however, be rewarded with abundant flavour and, if you mop up with some bread, a very clean bowl.

Keep busy. And concentrate on some cooking if you will, please... let's not waste time choosing between 'whence' and 'from whence'.

June 2015 - France: Monday 15th

Let me assure you that we were up at a reasonable time. Time enough to make it to Sarlat la Caneda and the selection of wines available there at Leclerc. This is when we stock up with bottles for everyday drinking and a few slightly more luxurious offerings which might tempt us with a comparatively cheap price in their land of production. I like Rhone wines and we are far enough south here to see a decent selection on shelves. No good expecting them next week in the Loire, where the local vintages will dominate, so they must be bought now.

Coming back out to the car park I noticed something which must be concerning the populace and especially the tourist trade here. We have a fairly comprehensive holiday insurance but this sort of warning about potential attacks from the local archery club must be taken seriously!

View fullsize

We pushed on into the centre of Sarlat; a medieval and renaissance mash-up with lots of impressive architecture. The town is not too heaving at this time of year but is still very much prepared for visitors. If any foie gras or nut liqueurs are bought it will be done in quieter, cheaper places.

View fullsize

On to Beynac and its feudal castle. I'm refraining from using the French word for the sake of pet lovers everywhere... we know how much most chats hate eau. It's a winding road up to the top and makes great exercise for the keen walker... we brazenly tanked up in our vehicle to the closest car park! Lunch saw a reprise of that delicious quiche. Here's Mrs. Cheoff looking all sunshine and lightness. Things did deteriorate; I'd broken the baguette habit and bought a flute instead. I managed to get this pic before Mrs. C turned sullen when she failed to find the finger holes! :/

View fullsize

Le chateau (there, I said it) is perched very dramatically on a bend in the River Dordogne. With a bit of encouraging hand-holding we explored higher and higher up towers and on ramparts to get stunning views of the world below us.

View fullsize

We meandered like the Dordogne and stopped in Domme for an ice cream. We couldn't quite remember or identify the site of a lovely meal we had there with our two sons and my Mum - but that was twenty years ago! I do remember Jayson#1 ordering a slice of lightly pan-fried foie gras and finding it just too rich... I gratefully took over from him!

A fairly obligatory swim back at the ranch lulled us into the idea that we could replace a few of the calories lost with our evening meal. The barbecue was fired up. Lamb, its kidneys and a freshly made potato salad were among the stuff we washed down with a few glasses of Picpoul de Pinet left in the fridge by our generous hosts. 

View fullsize

How great to be able to eat outside and enjoy warmth from not just the wine but also from the kind French evening climate. I never like to gloat for long - so let's finish this here and I'll try really hard to detach from smug mode before my next post... bonne nuit à tous.

June 2015 - France: Sunday 14th

Today was a lazy day with the chance to recover from a couple of long journeys and to consider eating less rich food. We managed the first but discarded the latter idea!

The champagne we bought on the way down had included a Grande Réserve which we opened with Jayne and Barry. I don't know enough about the fizz houses of Épernay and the surrounding area to be able to pick out a bottle with apple, yeast or citrus notes. It's all pot luck in that respect. However, we were advised a few years back to look on the label for the makers registered number. Look for the two letters 'NM' before the numerals and you will have a product on a par with any of the grand marques which perhaps trade on their name for a hike in price. As long as the indication of Négociant Manipulant is there, you can be assured of quality even if you have never heard of the maker.

View fullsize

As to the particular traits of the wine, you will have to go through the hard process of opening and tasting a bottle before returning to the supermarket! The first one we shared had a lovely balance with definite suggestions of apple, which we like. That will mean a trip back to the shops for more before we leave here.

That Grande Réserve worked out at £13.50 and will be brought out back at home for Christmas and special occasions. We've tasted another selection which had pleasant yeasty notes and, since that will cost around £7.25 depending on exchange rates, is definitely on the list for filling in at other times. You know... when your least favourite uncle arrives unexpectedly!

You will now realise why we travel by car and leave plenty of free storage space for our trips here.

We interrupted the Sunday laze with a swim and for supper ate some of the glorious quiche which Jayne insists on leaving for all guests.

View fullsize

Deep, satisfying and full of tasty goodness... just like Jayne!

Finding out that Amazon Prime is inaccessible to us over here, we abandoned attempts to achieve a balance of moods with 'Twelve Years A Slave'. Instead we Youtubed an episode of 'Morse'. Five minutes in I nipped over to a writing pad and scrawled a quick note. I'd completely forgotten the whodunit part but one of the sub-plots was logged in my memory bank. While making a nightcap an hour and a half later, I revealed my words to Mrs. Cheoff... "The drugs are hidden in the wheelchair" 

That's enough of a spoiler for now. The Mamas & Papas will be here in the next post with 'Lundi, Lundi'. I'll get some shut-eye before I get up at whatever time I like because I'm not at work tomorrow! :p