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The Grumpy Mole, Brockham

The Grumpy Mole

“Go and enjoy but don’t expect to be excited.”

Reviewed 25 January 2014

Our second visit for a lunch with ageing parents who already like the place.
The initial fear on seeing the menu is that it approaches the number of items on a typical over-extended take-away menu. Choice is wide but there is a suggestion that this is a fixed variety which will not be changed for anything but very small seasonal considerations. Therefore, regular customers will soon exhaust the selection without any temptation and excitement from a chef who is content to stick to the same repertoire.
Almost everything was cooked well and there was a pleasing difference in the accompanying vegetables. However, the two types of pastry needed for venison Wellington and suet pudding were misjudged and too soggy. There are ways to correct this by protecting the venison from the higher temperature needed for puff pastry and the fats around the steak and kidney really should have been given enough time to disperse and leave a lighter, crisper shell. Having said that, there were distinct flavours and all four of us enjoyed our meal of main and dessert.
The atmosphere and surroundings are enjoyable and service was excellent.
Prices are not unreasonable and we will probably remain infrequent rather than regular visitors.

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