Marmalade 2016 - Preserving The Warm Orange Glow

My silly notion that we might have enough of 2015's marmalade to keep us going was... well, just silly. A couple of days' effort, with lots more juicing, chopping, boiling and a little wiping of steamy windows, has produced the supply shown above. What follows is a final round-up of my 2016 marmalade activity. 

Last week I made precious jars of the marmalade master at Melrose & Morgan, Nick Selby's, lovely recipe... Plus that rhubarb and rose teabag jelly thing, of course. That just left a pile of Seville oranges to be dealt with. For these I deserted any books I have and internetted it for a while, coming up with this 'ultimate recipe'. I'm not sure about the tag. As long as I'm cooking, I'll enjoy the likelihood that 'ultimate' is out of reach, just around the corner... It helps in the struggle for perfection!

The immediate difference to all previously made marmalade recipes was the cooking of whole oranges. Not that I hadn't done it before in another situation. Thoughts turned straight to Claudia Roden and, more specifically, to her glorious 'Middle Eastern Orange Cake' in Diana Henry's 'Crazy Water Pickled Lemons'. The recipe lured me into buying my first Diana Henry cook book... all others were quickly sourced or pre-ordered when announced.

Back to Seville. The cooked oranges were a treat. The peel was blissfully easy to chop. The inner pulp scraped out readily and created a lovely pectin bag. This instigated a spot of silliness on my Facebook page. I might as well post it here in a last-ditch attempt to get it out of my system:

Setting point was reached quicker than ever before and in no time jars were filled and lids tightened. There were enough oranges to double the recipe so I decided to have another 'Marmalade muckabout' with the last batch. All was done as per the recipe but I introduced two flavours of my choice to the remaining juice and cut peel. Split into two smaller pans, I added powdered liquorice to one and crushed cardamom pods  to the other. To give you an idea, I had 560g of juice and sugar for each before adding the peel. Tasting was dangerous as I was dipping into very hot liquid. Drips onto cold saucers told me when both were fine. The liquorice was just right, and remains so. It needs to be used sparingly, though... unless you are a full-strength addict. I used a rounded teaspoonful. The cardamom left its traces very subtly. I would use more than the dozen pods next time or, perhaps, just the seeds from as many. I set both types in mini jars as potential gifts. They are cloudy compared to the clarity of the 'straight' batch.  

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The maslin pan is away now, waiting for summer fruits. The members of that opening photograph parade have all been safely stored. I continue to identify them using a roll of self-adhesive supermarket labels. The designs vary according to my whim. I'll keep adding copies of them to the LABELS album under the PHOTOS menu. 

With coloured pens out, I relaxed into a couple of hours' artwork. Nothing too developed but at least no sticky post-marmalade marks.

There has been inspiration from various quarters during this 'Orange Period'. Let's acknowledge some of them here:

Diana Henry... we meet quietly every Sunday in 'Stella' magazine and she gives me advice, inspiration and renewed pleasure whenever I take her down from a bookshelf.

Melrose & Morgan... a modern grocery business with class, underpinned by lovely old-fashioned attitudes and a rather splendid book.

 Anna Koska... her lovely art inspired me to get out my fine liner pens and try to capture some fruity goodness on paper. Follow her @Twitter feed for work in progress.

Claudia Roden... just take your pick from a woman whose Wikipedia page says bugger all about her wonderful wide-ranging achievements. 

Sous Chef... the home smoker, a Christmas present from my brother and his wife, came from here - as did that refined Italian liquorice. They have much that is tempting for every cook.

Marmalade muckabout

It's just a few days after my last marmalade themed post. Since then I've sliced, chopped, squeezed and boiled to replenish stocks of my favourite complex three fruit marmalade. That remaining bowl of Seville oranges will be used for more jars of 'straight' tangy variety. 

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'Good Morning' Breakfast Marmalade complete. Next destination... Seville! 

The yield is a couple of jars down from normal. That was deliberate. At least, it was after I'd had my little thought. As I started the second batch I decided to take out two ladlesworth of sugary juice before the softened peel was added back.

We are at the start of a glorious few weeks when forced rhubarb is making its appearance. Restaurants are grabbing supplies (tenderly, I hope) and adding this seasonal ingredient to their menus. Many will be offering a dessert with a blood orange sorbet or jelly. A panna cotta in place of custard might very likely be there as well. The rhubarb and orange combination is a classic which I have made in various forms over the years. But never in a preserve.

Ah, no - I had none of the tender stem to hand. However, my wife's recent search for a different drink had come up with the infusion on show here. 

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Those two ladles of reserved juice were boiled in a small pan until a set seemed likely... 106 °C on the thermometer and the consistency of a tiny sea anemone on a cold saucer. Just the one small jar in this trial run which then had one of the new tea bags dunked in while still very hot. When all was cooled, the bag was dragged from its sticky capture. The tasting revealed a subtle influence of rose and rhubarb. Very pleasing. Having made Earl Grey creams, I'm surprised it hadn't occurred to me before to make some sort of flowery, leafy tea additions to my jams and preserves.

I'll repeat the process, trying other flavours and different amounts. It certainly works... But I leave it to you to discover just what best suits your taste.

Let the tea-bagging commence!

Go, Get Set, Ready?... Marmalade!

Late January 2016

Let me put this in context. What you are about to read was typed almost a year ago. The same season is now upon us and it’s time for the annual making of marmalades. I am still waiting for the complete mix of oranges and grapefruits to arrive at my local shops. This is a reminder to keep checking for availability so that you can stock up on supplies of your chosen jars of trapped citrus sunshine.

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This is what I wrote eleven months ago. If you bookmark the post you could refer to it every year at this time…

Early February 2015

nick's 'good morning' breakfast marmalade

Phew... I think I’ve made it by the skin of my teeth! Tooth skin was never going to be an ingredient though. It was blood oranges which were eagerly awaited. Their eventual local availability almost coincided with the disappearance of Seville oranges from the shops. But with the alignment of those two and the addition of pink grapefruit I had the holy trinity which forms the basis of my favourite marmalade.

Here is the recipe.

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Turn to page 35 of this book and you will have instructions for the same marmalade… and the added bonus of Diana Henry’s reassuring prose.

I make other varieties but this is the firm (I will leave that there) favourite. Oh, the setting point! I have learned to worry less and less about the final consistency of my jammy preserves. You eventually get used to the absence of rhyme or reason in the particular poetry of jam setting. This year’s first batch of marmalades was unsealed and emptied from its jars and brought back to the boil to be rescued from a totally unsettled state. It doesn't happen often and, in any case, I’d rather leave things on the less than sticky side. Too much bubbling will dull flavours and risks an embarrassing ‘burnt bottom’. Always better to under do things here. Go gently. 

I can't force anyone to make this but please consider what your reward will be for doing so. The punchy, bright fruit here is the perfect start to any day. You will break free of shop bought product and its predictable fight between bitter and sweet. Yes, this has those elements but they are so delightfully mixed that they form a serene marriage (with just the occasional argument for interest). I am always reminded of the luscious allure of candied peel or, better still, those glistening jewels of dessert fruits confits. This marmalade totally beguiles in the same way... fruits from another climate with great hits of juice, sunshine and 'Refresher' sweets. Sugary syrup is there too but all the while you have the grown-up but playful presence of bitter peel saying, "I'm coming to get you!"

Back to late January 2016 again

Pester your greengrocer for news of deliveries. Buy your ingredients. And take my advice. Make double quantities at the very least... unless you're prepared to suffer withdrawal symptoms two hours after breakfast every morning.

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Making Norwich even finer

Benedicts, Norwich

My wife, Jan, and I ate at Benedicts on November 5th 2015. We were hoping that this new restaurant would be one more great reason to visit our favourite city. We were not disappointed.

The Place

The restaurant looked most welcoming as we approached on foot in darkness and drizzle. Inside the décor is stripped back and functional. Nothing is imposed on you except the obvious task of choosing your food and drink. I like that approach. People and good food are surely enough ingredients to create a successful atmosphere. I had walked in with the person I love most in the world but we were soon to find out that Benedicts surrounds you with special people as well. More about them later.

The Food

We had already decided to have the tasting menu.  Here it is with my pictures of some of the food. The quality of my photography is rather awful. The quality of the cooking was truly terrific.

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Prawn cocktails and Cheese and Pineapple to start... but not for starters. These were delightful amuse-bouches. The prawns had a light smokiness due to some Jack Daniel's in the sauce. The cheese and pineapple had been ripped away from any evidence of halved oranges and cocktail sticks. They had been given new texture and flavour as well. A good beginning.

A more substantial 'snack' came next. The sumptuous potato mousse and the deep, dark, desperately delicious gravy combined perfectly to show what can be done with simple ingredients.

The lamb dish which was served at the Women's Institute dinner followed. Jan loves lamb and this was a treat for her. Yes, the meat was great and the egg yolk added luxury but our talk all centred on the Jerusalem artichokes which were a revelation. Three approaches leading to unexpected textural and flavour hits. Parsley sponge, lovely as it was, fought, along with the rest of the elements, to combat those artichokes. We tucked in and just enjoyed the struggle. 

The smoked trout is a sophisticated but gentle course which offers relative respite from the richness of the other dishes. The fish was perfect and the buttermilk began to supply some contrast but the plums were too bland. It was the one time when I judged that the quality of produce had been lacking. Among such excellence, it hardly mattered.

The Norfolk quail prep was posted to @twitter a couple of weeks before our visit. The bird is given royal treatment with a glorious herb stuffing. So easy to eat. Vegetables were just right. A further plus was Richard's conversion of my wife to the pleasures of pearl barley... previously scorned by her due to other chef's mistreatment. It will now appear in my risottos, soups, breads and puddings.

Nanny Bush's Trifle rounds off proceedings. You should be aware that the GBM Tasting Menu is not being served from the end of January but this and other winning dishes will still be available on the à la carte menu. Like any successful chef, Richard will be gladly 'saddled' with these dishes for some time... Glynn Purnell is still serving a version of his own winning dessert five years later! The need to satisfy customers with their favourites while continuing to challenge them with your latest innovations is a task I gladly leave to the professionals.

The trifle is glorious. No-one should mess up a trifle and Richard doesn't. Ah, we did have that lovely sweet 'cocktail' as well. Both will certainly be made in our house after our post-Christmas diets are relaxed and I have bribed chef to give me the full recipes!

My simple black coffee is so often a disappointing end to a meal out. Here it was properly brewed from properly roasted beans. Just as good as this fussy individual makes at home ;)

The People (the best bit!)

Richard is magnificently backed by a great team. Katja, his wife, is there supporting the business and making a fuss of all the customers in the best possible way… by not making a fuss about it. Working in a marriage and in a business with your partner has much potential to strain a relationship. I see every sign that it will instead provide challenging, but lovely, opportunities to bring these two closer together.

They have recruited young people to their cause, some less experienced than others. Each one who we met was very good at their job and made it hard to believe that they are still very much at the beginning of their careers. They must take credit for the fine qualities they already have. I am sure those qualities will be developed, nurtured and refined even more by the very much older Richard… he is thirty-three! The only drawback of Adam Vass joining as General Manager is that he must have raised the average age of this lovely, youthful lot by twenty years! I only fail to mention the names of others who looked after us so well since they are embroiled in a fierce contest to gain the most 'Likes' and 'Follows' on social media... I refuse to get involved!

If you watched The Great British Menu 2015 you will know that Richard also recognises the influence on him of some very strong women in his family; his mother in particular. After plating up Nanny Bush's trifle for television judging he attempted to read his written tribute to their inspiration. The love and passion which choked him into handing the task over to another was completely understood and very moving. All in all, there is great human strength behind the ‘Benedict’s’ venture.

To Finish

It is heartening, even though expected, that Benedict's is developing strongly in a very short time. There have been well-deserved awards and glowing reviews. I have referenced some of those below. Extra dining space is being offered and a Private Dining Room can be booked. Cookery demonstrations are available and, of course, the menu will change - but only in ways which will further display @ChefBainbridge's passion.

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As you can see from the picture above, Richard looks over your shoulder for the whole meal to check that everything is to your satisfaction. It's either that or a clever, looming threat to ensure the bill is paid. I did do the sums before settling up but, to be quite honest, it is silly to put a price on such an experience. The only pain suffered during the evening was the sight of each finished plate. Everything else was perfect pleasure.

The final pleasure was when Richard came into the restaurant for a chat after service. He was genuinely interested in our experience, anxious to find out if anything might be improved. In our opinion the kitchen had been right on top of their game so it was very poignant that he admitted to constantly fretting over each dish as it goes out. Let's listen to Gordon Ramsay here... "The more confident a chef, the less he needs to hide." It's a fine ideal but only a misguided chef would think they achieve perfection time after time with every dish. However, while Richard's humility is a lovely thing, his rich talents really demand that he stand in the spotlight taking the plaudits instead of ever trying to find any hiding place.

Certainly our most enjoyable and memorable meal of last year. I wholeheartedly recommend a visit. I do that with a bit of reluctance. Bookings are pretty solid and I want to go again soon... leave me some dates!

We mentioned that Jan and I had met in Norwich many years ago and this was not forgotten in the short spot of Twitterland nonsense which followed:

There is one thing that has nagged at me since seeing his picture on the telly and meeting the man in person. Just where does Richard get the inspiration for his effortless style and panache from? I reckon I've finally found the answer in this iconic plaything for girls and boys.

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Our very sincere thanks, much respect and a lot of love to the entire Benedicts team. 

benedicts, norwich: review - olive

Number 3 in The Times 25 best new restaurants in the UK

Richard Bainbridge on Great British Menu and opening his own restaurant By Sophie Witts, 25-Sep-2015

Benedicts, Norwich: ‘I love a chef who gets jiggy with the animal fats’ Marina O’Loughlin

A Special Dessert - Supplemental

I did a bad thing in my last post. Talking about the generosity of another chef and then being all clever and stupid at the same time by refusing to give you fuller recipe details. I should have remembered that stupid always beats clever and doesn't really reflect too well on the perpetrator.

So, in an attempt to drag myself from a self-imposed puddle of shame, may I present to you the whereabouts of the fabulous (yes, I've upgraded its status!) dessert  with which I teased you.

You do still need to buy ALL the David Everitt-Matthias books. You also need to pre-order any future publication of his as soon as it is announced. They are, and will remain, classics. But if you wish to make a start with that pudding you simply need to make 'dessert' your first purchase and turn to page 82.

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There; let's draw a veil under my silliness. No... forget the veil. Just grab the ingredients for the sweetcorn cream. Popcorn and caramel probably grabbed you right away but the cream is one element of the recipe which isn't immediately so familiar as an idea. It is a revelation of texture and flavour and you will kick yourself if you don't make it. Tell me if you're procrastinating and I'll come and give you a helpful foot prod as well.

Right - apology delivered. I'm off to prepare a post which will try to describe why this trilogy of books is such a wonderful addition to the worktop of all us amateur cooks. I will agonise about getting that one as convincingly right as possible first time.

A Special Dessert

Apparently it's #NationalPopcornDay! What better excuse to rave about this: 

Sweetcorn cream, popcorn ice cream, caramel and popcorn craquant.

A truly wonderful dessert from a recipe by the more than truly wonderful David Everitt-Matthias

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It's a while since I made this and, looking back, I really should have done a little better with that quenelle of ice cream and the consistency of the caramel sauce. No, let's face it... this tasted so lovely that appearance was secondary. 

You could make the entire terrific thing as I did or follow the 2 Star Michelin chef's sensible advice and begin with one or two tasty elements which appeal.

I'm pretty sure you can't download  the low-down for this one. So, you will need a link to the superb book which contains the recipe.

What's that? I didn't say which one to purchase? Ah, that would be pointless because you will need all of them immediately and will cook from them at very regular intervals while offering up fervent thanks for the existence of such bounty in our lifetime. I promise you that the recipe appears in one of these magnificent volumes!

Here are all the required elements I made before plating.

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This is not a horribly demanding dish apart, perhaps, from taking your time and attention. The rewards are the usual ones of having something truly special made in your own kitchen. Your efforts can be shared with love or scoffed selfishly with spoon-licking delight in a quiet corner.

David Everitt-Matthias is one of the most generous people I know. That has become obvious after my very limited contacts with him. Take advantage of his generosity. His food is staggeringly fine but his ideas are largely achievable in a modest home kitchen. He would tell you so himself.

So will I. Go on.. get cooking!

Christmas 2015 - Three pounds of chipolatas

Pound the first

Cook them at 180° for 40 minutes on a baking tray. Give them a little more if you want them ‘overdone’! There will be less chance of sticking if you wipe a teaspoon of oil across the tray for all these recipes.

Pound the second

Snip, cut or karate chop each chipolata into three or four ‘piglets’ and spread on a baking tray.

Mix 3 tablespoons of runny honey, 1 finely chopped red chilli and 1 tablespoon of mirin. Pour onto the sausages.

Cook at 180° for 35 minutes.

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Pound the third

Measure each chipolata and use mental arithmetic or a calculator to divide each one into exact thirds.  OK, OK… Make the ‘piglets’ as above if you must!

Mix 2 tablespoons of maple syrup, 2 tablespoons of grain mustard and 1 tablespoon of dark soy sauce. Pour onto the sausages.

Cook on a baking tray at 180° for 35 minutes.

You now have one pound of chipolatas to accompany the turkey, to be used as sandwich filling or just for casual nomming when the feeling takes you. The other two pounds give a nod to the cocktail sausages which my Mum always made. She also experiments with other flavours these days but, whatever yummy coating, we still call them 'Baby Barkers' after my brother's chosen name for them.

My batches are in the freezer now. There are so many taste sensations on offer through the festivities that it surely doesn't hurt to numb some of them for a while in a very cold place... Especially if it means you are ahead of the game and can talk to family and friends instead of cooking. Defrosted, these come back to life very well wrapped loosely in foil and given a final 10 minutes at medium oven heat.

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As you might expect, the delicious Lincolnshire pork sausages came from the wonderful people at Brown's Family Butchers

Cook some before Christmas. You'll need no more than an hour and a half altogether. If you can freeze all of them before 'testing' a few you're much more strong-willed than I am!