essence

This post is a bit of a magnum opus which I suggest you attempt to take in at more than one sitting.

Here I’m giving myself the job of rounding up most of the recipes which I have so far managed to cook from the three books written by world-renowned chef David Everitt-Matthias. ‘World-renowned’ is the correct description. It does not mean that he is known by the majority of Earth’s population. But there are people worldwide with an understanding of David’s contribution to cooking and his training and development of chefs. And every one of them is in unavoidable awe of his achievements and the inspiration he provides.

Recipes from his restaurant Le Champignon Sauvage remain approachable for the keen home cook. I used to love making Airfix and Revell model kits as a youngster. I look on my efforts in the kitchen as an application of the same skills and processes. I am still not an intuitive cook and rely on the help of good, clear instructions. But I do accept the challenge of recipes which some would avoid as too adventurous. That is only because practice has given me confidence to know my limits. Having said that, I have cooked for long enough to introduce a little of my own flair and modifications. I don’t make huge culinary advances - but I am pretty good at going off slightly sideways fairly regularly.

You will soon see that I have been heavily attracted by dessert recipes. Puddings are not generally on the weekly menus for Mrs Cheoff and me. Instead they appear as the finale to meals for invited family and friends. Mrs C has a host of well-known and oft-requested dishes. Those are always delicious and satisfying but I insist on mucking about considerably more to create my offerings. An Everitt-Matthias recipe gives me ample opportunity for that. They also give anyone the chance to pick out one or two elements only and still make something interesting and tasty.

I have detailed some of these dishes in my blog before. If you reference this post and it encourages you to try out some of the ideas my job is done. My new mantra is ‘Don’t just look - COOK!’

With a few exceptions, each recipe title below will link to a gallery of photographs of my results. Some were not captured and a few are still uncatalogued and waiting to be found on old hard drives. I will update where I can.

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apricot sorbet
‘beyond essence’ p. 144
Sharply sweet? Sweetly sharp? Either way - just as it should be.

basil mojito sorbet
Mrs Cheoff chose the ‘lemon meringue tart’ (coming up below) on our first visit to Le Champignon Sauvage in 2010. Chef served it with this basil mojito sorbet. Six years later I asked for the recipe and got it. You don’t, I’m afraid. I have respected chef’s request not to share this particular one - but I would be very pleased to make some for you if you are passing this way! It’s a stand-alone stunner as far as I am concerned. Good enough for concentrated enjoyment in the pre-dessert I chose to make.
I give it some more companions in my ‘lemon and basil’ further down this page.

beetroot and bubblegum pastille
A recipe from David Everitt-Matthias’ Great British Chefs pages here
My excitement at juicing beetroot for the first time turned to surprise at the good yield of liquid. Four large beets gave just more than needed.
These are a great addition to a petit four selection. Raised eyebrows and discussion will almost certainly accompany the initial visual shock but should precede enjoyment of a treat which eats very well.

bitter chocolate fudge
‘essence’ p. 172
Pistachio and raisin added to this one as per the recipe. Helen Everitt-Matthias is rather partial to this one. As the perfect host she will even suppress her glare should you dare to take it for yourself from the petits fours on offer with coffee!*

*The generous variety of the petits fours made at the restaurant also inspire me to have a good selection ready for guests at our home.

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blackcurrant and liquorice jelly
‘dessert’ p. 141
Plenty of flavour here but I didn’t bring things right up to temperature for a more solid jelly. The ‘wrong’ soft set was still good enough after rolling in sugar.

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braised blade of beef
‘essence’ p. 122
A main course!
No nettle risotto. Instead I went for a mustard mash, caramelised shallots and star anise carrots. Rich rewards here from the long cooking of the meat.

brandade
‘beyond essence’ p. 32
Salty, garlicky and creamy with a gently bitter tang from fried onions. Still no iSi gun at Cheoff Towers to deliver whipped foams. A trip to a well-known health food store for lecithin granules to be ground to powder was chef’s successful suggestion for the garlic froth.
I served this as an amuse and at least three of our guests admitted that their reservations about ingredients had been completely squashed by its rich but balanced flavours.
Pierre Koffmann judged the version which David cooked for him as one of the finest he had tasted.

caramel-poached pineapple, coconut gel, pineapple and lemon verbena sorbet
‘beyond essence’ p. 142
Apart from the too firm consistency of the coconut cream gel this was a bit of a dazzler. Worth the work spread over a couple of days. Even sweeter than the old-style tinned stuff, the pineapple is perfectly matched by that wonderful zingy sorbet.

chausson of elderberry & bramley with vanilla ice cream
‘beyond essence’ p. 146
The crunch and lightness of the duck fat pastry gives enough pleasure even before the filling reveals itself. This is a fruit turnover raised from the commonplace to special status.

chocolate and star anise truffle cake with fennel ice cream
‘essence’ p. 150
Food really should linger longer on the tongue for full appreciation. This sticks to the roof of your mouth and delays things before the swallowing.
The cake was made but I used vanilla ice cream and segmented oranges on my plate.

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chocolate, orange, liquorice
(adapted from/inspired by bergamot parfait, orange jelly, liquorice cream - ‘beyond essence’ p. 139)
After eating the original dish at Le Champignon Sauvage I used similar flavours for two plates.
The first has a caramel ice cream robed with dark chocolate and some cocoa nib tuiles. Poached mandarins, orange jelly and candied peel complete.
The Gary Jones/Raymond Blanc recipe for liquorice ice cream replaces chocolate and caramel in the second version. Chocolate soil and hazelnut tuiles join in.

cinnamon-spiced doughnuts
‘dessert’ p. 105
(no photos available)
These were made as an alternative to the fried ‘bugnes’ which accompany Diana Henry’s Skier’s Chocolate drink recipe.
I froze some of the ‘cherries’ of dough and successfully fried them a few weeks later.

crab apple parfait with green apple and haw sorbet
‘essence’ p. 154
The tree in our neighbour’s garden at the end of the street has gloriously red crab apples which give my parfait a shade of pink lovely enough to grace an Edwardian baby boy’s dress.
My first effort was served with a wild plum sorbet and some crumbly flapjack.
The version made only last month (September 2020) followed much closer to the recipe. Rose petals were added to flavour the apple sorbet and I sugared and lightly roasted some more to crumble over the top of the parfait.
Fragrance, freshness, sweetness and sharpness all make a dessert beautiful enough to discard the word ‘pudding’.

duck confit
‘essence’ p. 16
A wonderful store cupboard standby. Make sure at least a few are heated, crisped and eaten as they are. The shredded meat layered into potato dauphinoise or added to breads (try brioche) are just a couple of further ways to use it.

lemon and basil
This pulls together various elements and ideas from the ‘essence’ cookbooks. A lemon parfait, some vanilla ice cream and that splendid basil mojito sorbet are the trio of main players. Strips of candied orange peel and a fennel granola add texture and some home grown Thai basil gave wonderful sweet aniseed notes through leaves and flowers.

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lemon meringue tart
‘dessert’ p. 66
Angelica and lemon sorbet and jelly were substituted here by my raspberry sorbet and some lemon verbena jelly. The sweet pastry recipe David devised for the National Chef of the Year (which he won!) makes a wonderfully reliable base to the tart here.

lemon verbena jelly
‘dessert’ p. 68
As seen in the recipe above. With the irresistible zing and tingle of sherbet lemons.

pickled apples
‘essence’ p. 21
(no photos available)
Another good one for the store cupboard. To combat fattiness of oily fish, game and terrines.

pickled green elderberries
’beyond essence’ p. 14
Made recently as I missed the opportunity to pickle wild garlic flower buds. Panic nearly set in as the elder only appeared to show dark, ripe berries. On closer inspection the foliage was hiding still green berries as well. White balsamic gives these a gentle sweet pickling.

pistachio and olive oil cake with roasted strawberries and rhubarb sorbet
‘essence’ p. 156
Changes here were poached apricots and apricot sorbet instead of the red fruits of the original.

prune and honey cake with pressed apples and mahlab cherry stone ice cream
‘dessert’ p. 62
(no photos available)
No substitutions when I made this one. Which involved one of my first forays into ‘speciality’ ingredients and a wait for the mahlab cherry stones.
Oh - this uses ‘marinated prunes in armagnac’ from page 16 of the same book. In full agreement with chef that you should make some to top a creamy rice pudding.

ras el hanout
‘essence’ p. 41
Many uses for this spice mix. Strong suspicion that it flavoured Mrs Cheoff’s lamb pastilla on our first visit to Cheltenham.

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raspberry jelly
(adapted from strawberry and hibiscus jelly with lemon verbena custard and blackcurrant sorbet - ‘dessert’ p. 48)
The cover of ‘dessert’ shows the recipe I’ve adapted and presented in the same way as a pre-dessert. The jelly had a little Chambord raspberry liqueur added and is topped with a sweet amaretto whipped cream. Toasted spiced bread batons and crumbs for crunch.

roasted acorns
acorn panna cotta
‘essence’ p.166
Photographs for this one (I just made the acorn panna cotta) are mislaid. One property we visit in France has an oak tree with a ripe harvest. They are roasted on our return and ground. I love the Caramac or Dime Bar flavour this adds to cakes and custards.

salted caramel and peanut truffles
‘beyond essence’ p. 176
Yum. Just make them. (Snickers in disguise!)

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salted lemons
‘essence’ p. 18

semifreddo of macadamia nuts with passion fruit and star anise sorbet
‘dessert’ p. 33
Our Boxing Day dessert a few Christmases ago. One of those dishes where guests can be seen silently thinking that I should abandon plating up portions for individuals and allow a free-for-all with large spoons back in the kitchen.

sorrel ice cream
‘dessert’ p. 119
I like this. Mrs Cheoff not keen. The distinct vegetable matter taste is almost bound to divide opinion.

spiced bread
‘essence’ p. 22
So many uses, both sweet and savoury. Crouton crunch for soups and salads and I’ve recently used the fine crumbs to line raspberry soufflé dishes. Mentioning it here reminds me to fulfil my long-standing promise to fry batons of this bread in lashings of butter and serve up with candied peel or confit fruits.

sweetcorn and smoked bacon muffins
‘beyond essence’ p. 29
These always go down just as well fresh or reheated. A bag of them is often to be found in our freezer.

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sweetcorn cream with caramel and popcorn ice cream
‘dessert’ p. 82
One of the recipes I approached early on. As did son James who has been singing the praises of sweetcorn cream ever since.

tartare sauce
’essence’ p. 33
Taken from the recipe to go with crispy pig’s ears. I failed to get them cooked correctly - twice! But this sauce is regularly made for fish finger wraps and the haddock goujons in my album picture. If our tarragon plant outside has given up I’ll chop some salted lemons to add the same brightness.

tomato confit with lemon
‘essence’ p. 17
(no photos available)
Acidity and pulled back sweet fruit of tomato make for a tempting tracklement (not used that word for ages). Really good on a cube of hard cheese for starters. Well - for canapés I guess.

white chocolate and salted lemon fudge
‘dessert’ p. 140
One of the few recipes I’ll make with white chocolate. The salted lemon stops the ‘lazy’ cloying sweetness and makes you wonder if just one more might not be a bad idea.

That’s it. For now. If I come back to add future efforts (after pushing the DeLorean up to 88 mph?) my only dilemma will be whether to tag them on the end here or go full pedant and insert new entries in their alphabetical place.

So. The end. If you are still here - thank you and well done!

Chef Bainbridge: Inspiration

Some things nag at you for a while. Yes, indeed. This one has been nagging at me for just over two years now… cripes!

The great thing about social media is that, in the midst of composing my own meanderings, I am occasionally brought up short by the presence of much more accomplished, purposeful and committed people. I was completely side-tracked by a tweet from BENEDICTS Restaurant Head Chef, Richard Bainbridge. Posted on a day which would not recur for another four years, it really appealed to my interest in the creation of menus, especially the more developed and thoughtful menus of people who have devoted their life to the challenge of providing food for which I'll gladly pay.

Posted on Twitter - 11:27 AM - 29 Feb 2016 - Giving a new meaning to 'Chefs Table'

These few words accompany chef's picture:
"Spring is in the air !!! #inspiration @RestBenedicts..."

I scanned and scoured the picture until I was happy that I'd identified most of the books which Richard had chosen to use for his planning session.  This would be part of his 'spring clean' just nine months into opening the restaurant. It brought home to me the huge difference between what goes on in a professional kitchen and what I attempt at home. I will rarely plan meals for more than a week ahead, with a few extra considerations in the background for upcoming dinners with friends. In Norfolk a new season and new styles of cooking were being considered. Everything to be studied, embraced or rejected (maybe kept simmering for eventual use) and worked into new menus. With the added elements of deciding what is achievable, available, economical and viable in a commercial setting... not to mention having the confidence that the results of those decisions will appeal to diners. 

You can see from my unanswered question on the original tweet that one book at least remains a mystery (Yes, chef, I fully realise that you have a wealth of better things to do than slavishly review and respond to all social media... no offence taken!) but here are links to those which were definitely in the frame and on chef's desk at the time:

‘Heritage’ by Sean Brock
‘Relae: A Book of Ideas’ by Christian F. Puglisi
‘The Desserts of Jordi Roca: Over 80 Dessert Recipes Conceived in EL CELLER DE CAN ROCA’ by Jordi Roca
‘Daniel: My French Cuisine’ by Daniel Boulud
‘Bistronomy: French food unbound’ by Katrina Meynink
'Biota' by James Viles
'Sea and Smoke: Flavors from the Untamed Pacific Northwest' by Blaine Wetzel
'Atelier Crenn: Metamorphosis of Taste' by Dominique Crenn
'Kimchi: Essential Recipes of the Korean Kitchen' by Byung-Hi Lim
'The Nordic Cookbook' by Magnus Nilsson

I have some books with similar themes but none of those specific publications. 'Kimchi' is no surprise. At the beginning of each year food journalists are clamouring to predict what the trends will be for future months. In 2016 many had identified the fermenting of vegetables as a coming thing. This year one of the competitors from the most recent series of MasterChef: The Professionals has helped to put the fermented-related Kombucha in the spotlight (thank you Matthew Campbell). I'm pretty sure that neither Chef Bainbridge or Matt are really interested in 'trends'... but I expect they keep their options open in case a filthy great commercial deal to front 'flavour of the moment' comes along!

Trends alone will not provide the variety of flavours and cooking techniques which Richard offers. They might appear as an element but only if they complement and balance a dish. There might be other trends in the rest of the books on the desk but they would also distract from my main thrust here. Which rather forces me to focus on that thrust.

The reason I was brought up short by a seemingly simple picture was... erm, simple. I would love to have sat next to Richard on the day he took that picture for however many hours it took before he picked up a pan or a kitchen tool. If I was part of a group of keen like-minded cooks that would be great too. It would mean that Richard was running a session unlike any he has previously led except with his professional team. If any cooking ensued, fine. But, for me, it would be enough to join in the process of research and planning which ultimately leads to the creation of a brand new menu and deciding which excess exciting ideas are to be kept on the back burner.

Richard still offers demonstrations and gives talks. Here is his diary for this year. Much success and recognition have led to new commitments which have altered the complexion of courses run at Benedicts. So the chances of me sitting in on the creation of exciting new menus by this top chef are slim now. Maybe I should have contacted Richard two years ago to see if he needed a page-turner for 'The Nordic Cook Book'.

Maybe we should all message him now, two years later, and see if he might squeeze in a day which allows us to watch a magical menu being born.

A cookery class without any cooking isn't everyone's dream ... but it's an idea which I would love to see happen.

Deliaaargh!

I've said elsewhere that about half of our festive cooking will rely on recipes from 'Delia Smith's Christmas'. Which means that I would have had her in mind this week even without reports on her post-palace pronouncements.

I remember her TV series of 'How to Cook' and its accompanying books and asking why on earth Delia needed to repeat exactly the same output of twenty-five years earlier. Of course, a new younger generation were in need of the sound basics which I and millions had taken on board when we were that new younger generation. No harm in repeating (rehashing sounds a bit derogatory) good basic recipes and tips for success in cooking. Now that the digital age is upon us it is certain that many have no habit other than resort to the internet for their guide and inspiration. And much sound and sensible stuff is readily available. What you seldom get online is the type of cookbook content which I will continue to buy – the one which is dripping with ‘proper, satisfying’ food writing. Instructional text is fine but publishers still seek out and find authors who surround their passion for food with a deeper understanding of the history, origins, colour and just plain magical stories and poetry which abound in the world of food… and have the literary skills to make those details so vibrant and alive. I won't dwell on the merits of food photography. I revel in that whether it be in analog or digital form. But it always comes second to my enjoyment of the written word as creative and tasty as the food it describes. 

There is an increasing abundance of good writing available through electronic means but it will take a heck of a long time for publishers to be threatened into discarding their physical, book-bound medium. Let’s face it, we are still presenting text and illustrations in the same format as monks in a scriptorium did a thousand years ago!

So… Delia is wide of the mark in identifying the demise of the printed cookbook..

As for her crass, ill-informed and stupefying pronouncements on the state of UK restaurant offerings… ah, yes, I’ve given a few clues as to how I react to those.

I continue to buy into Delia’s reliable and sound advice on the elements needed to cook well at home. I have used and benefited from it for years. There are other approaches and styles of cooking. They are achievable in our own kitchens but many will only experience those if they pay for them to be cooked by a professional. And the offerings from the vast majority of current professionals is totally counter to the lazy descriptions which Delia has chosen to use. I truly do not understand why she decided to air what amount to ridiculous judgements on our vibrant restaurant scene. I do not exclude or forgive the few individuals and concerns who let down the side with scarcely a nod to substance and a silly slavishness to style. Many were able to get away with that twenty years ago. But today harsher commercial considerations demand an honesty which, whatever the style of cooking, almost always guarantees pleasure through flavour.

Delia might do better to mount a mild attack on the sort of presentation which piles a plate high with more of something which won't taste too great even at the first mouthful. 

Having the incredible opportunity to work in a Michelin starred kitchen recently, I watched as plate after plate left the pass. Each one had all those “poncey and chefy” touches which Delia dismisses so readily. And each one was filled with the most stunning variety of perfect flavours, achievable only with consummate skill and touch, often using produce so fresh it had still been growing two hundred metres away earlier that day. The preparation which had gone into every mouthful relied on a concerted and united effort to bring excellence to the customer. An honest chef, whether Michelin starred or not, does not present with visual style unless it is backed up, matched and often exceeded by flavour.

I do not identify Delia’s words as those of someone heady with the award just bestowed upon her… or as the uttering of someone compromised by alcohol. There are no suggestions that her mental faculties are failing significantly. Which leaves me struggling to find any honourable reason for her willingness to undermine and denigrate the profession of which she is a part.

Shame on you, Delia, for betraying your fellows with unfounded and bitterly disappointing swipes and slashes (I didn't count the dots). I will think of you just a little less kindly this year... but I shall do so as I savour your Classic Christmas Cake recipe yet again.

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#NoHardFeelings - Last week in the kitchen produced a Creole Cake, a Christmas Cake, a Christmas Pudding and Mincemeat... all from Delia's seasonal recipes.

David Everitt-Matthias - A Trio of Essentials

How I wish I could say 'A Quintet of Essentials'. 'An Octet' would be even better. But I'm being greedy. The three cookbooks which I talk about here are enough to satisfy the keenest of those whose favourite room in the house is the kitchen... until another is published, of course! 

I have referenced one of David Everitt-Matthias' recipes before but I do feel rather daft for not devoting more writing time to my favourite chef.  I haven't quite worked out the reasons for this. Just wobbling around with fear of failing to do justice to a hero and almost tongue-tied by the awe in which I hold him, I guess. Of course, I must include David’s wife, Helen, in any discussion of the twenty-nine year old restaurant perfection that is Le Champignon Sauvage. That perfection is built on the combination, development and application of their immense talents and skills, applied with huge determination. One couple have created an experience which ranks alongside the most enjoyable moments in my life outside of those with my family and friends.

I should focus on those cookbooks, shouldn't I? As a keen cook, the three published volumes in my introductory picture are the most treasured purchases that I have made to feed my enthusiasm. And feed it they have. I have too many books containing lovely recipes which leave me cold as I read. The writer gives nothing more than bald instruction and a shrug of 'Get on with it'. David's books have an abundance of those wonderful dishes you would expect from a double-starred Michelin chef but on every page his presence is felt. Exciting, at first glance, complicated recipes are presented with a quiet and insistent assurance that they can be produced by you while a great teacher advises, cajoles and encourages over your shoulder. 

You are given clear and practical ways to use the books. Store-cupboard and foundation items to make in advance mean that you can have great treats to enjoy and use in your cooking through the year. Recipes are challenging; challenges of technique and of flavour profiles and combinations. Any reservations are gently smoothed over as David weaves in details of wild, foraged items, the merits of unfamiliar ingredients, tempts you with unexpected creations and gradually seduces you into the certainty that this is achievable at home.

Every recipe has elements which you are invited to include, discard or save for consideration another time. Items which were 'exotic' a few decades ago are so much easier to source now but there are plentiful ideas for substituting any ingredients still difficult to find or if a particular flavour profile is off-putting. Alternatives which still work well are frequently suggested.

Desserts obviously dominate the middle volume but there are enough in the other two to satisfy the sweet tooth... and anyone who is looking to include vegetables right up to the end of a meal!

Before getting to the glossary and acknowledgements, each book includes a few delightful recipes for petits fours. Jellies, fudges, pastries and tracklement treasures simply confirm the touch and span of a master of his art.

Crispy pig's ears with a lovely acidic tartare sauce was the first recipe I tackled. The ears stay a matter for more understanding and sympathetic treatment but the sauce is a regular treat with other meals.

Mini cinnamon-spiced doughnuts followed. White chocolate and salted lemon fudge (using salted lemons from the 'foundations' section) demands to be made regularly. Some years back we had a Boxing Day to remember with more pleasure than usual after indulging in 'semifreddo of macadamia nuts with passion fruit and star anise sorbet'. Versions of glazed pork belly, pressed apples, acorn panna cotta and ras el hanout caramel have all been enjoyed in the making and in the tasting.

With the appearance of 'beyond essence' David explores further afield to the Middle East and beyond for wonderful additions to recipes already full of complex delight. I won't expand on the repertoire from which I frequently access recipes and ideas. I leave you to discover the rest for yourself. You will have rich pickings.

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dark chocolate and star anise truffle cake

My recommendation here will be old news to many home cooks but for others this is an acclaimed chef who you might not have heard of. His culinary stature is huge and accolades are regular but his media presence is quiet and small. That someone so accomplished exists with so little celebrity is an indication of great modesty. David does not court attention... but his work demands it. The generosity you will discover in these books is in his sharing of a lifetime's experience and experimentation. 

Another chef recently posted his own dessert recipe on social media. This was met with many a 'Yum' and 'Delish'. But most added, "Looks great but I couldn't possibly do this at home... please come round and cook this for me!" I have a sneaky feeling that if David could spare the time he would respond to such a request and make his way to your kitchen. Once there, he would refuse to cook. Instead, he would gradually create the confidence you need to produce the whole thing yourself. You would be getting the same invaluable input which has nurtured so many young chefs in his professional kitchen at Cheltenham. When one of his 'graduates' tweeted "He (David) never once raised his voice" I was not in the least surprised. 

'Stages' are available at the restaurant. Failing that opportunity, you still have the 'essence' of David Everitt-Matthias. His recipes give you access to a wealth of riches which are available to grasp and enjoy. If you don't have his books you really should.

Finally, a little pondering which is brought on by my love of calligraphy, printing and books.

After owning 'essence' for a few months I noticed this information following the title page:  

“A note about the text
This book is set in Sabon MT.
Sabon was designed by Jan
Tschichold in 1964. The roman
design is based on type by Claude
Garamond, whereas the italic
design is based on types by Robert
Granjon.”

David and Helen Everitt-Matthias love France. David immediately acknowledges the use of classic techniques which were developed in French cuisine. He has relied on them with great respect as a foundation for his cooking.. What he has subsequently brought to his kitchen seems to have close parallels  to the designs of Tschichold and other typographers for whom Garamond and Granjon were shining French lights.

I might be stretching a point but, for me, it is wholly appropriate that the text of my favourite cookbooks is designed with the same approach as David's...  he and Tschichold stand on the shoulders of giants and, adding persistent excellence and genius, search for and create stunning new expressions of their chosen craft.

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A Special Dessert - Supplemental

I did a bad thing in my last post. Talking about the generosity of another chef and then being all clever and stupid at the same time by refusing to give you fuller recipe details. I should have remembered that stupid always beats clever and doesn't really reflect too well on the perpetrator.

So, in an attempt to drag myself from a self-imposed puddle of shame, may I present to you the whereabouts of the fabulous (yes, I've upgraded its status!) dessert  with which I teased you.

You do still need to buy ALL the David Everitt-Matthias books. You also need to pre-order any future publication of his as soon as it is announced. They are, and will remain, classics. But if you wish to make a start with that pudding you simply need to make 'dessert' your first purchase and turn to page 82.

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There; let's draw a veil under my silliness. No... forget the veil. Just grab the ingredients for the sweetcorn cream. Popcorn and caramel probably grabbed you right away but the cream is one element of the recipe which isn't immediately so familiar as an idea. It is a revelation of texture and flavour and you will kick yourself if you don't make it. Tell me if you're procrastinating and I'll come and give you a helpful foot prod as well.

Right - apology delivered. I'm off to prepare a post which will try to describe why this trilogy of books is such a wonderful addition to the worktop of all us amateur cooks. I will agonise about getting that one as convincingly right as possible first time.