Three days of preparation for this one. Travelling ‘beyond essence’ is almost certainly a faster process for the creator of this recipe but I can please myself as far as my cooking timetable goes before deciding it’s time to please guests. I remain in awe of David Everitt-Matthias and his team’s ability to do this sort of thing and much more for hundreds of customers so regularly and so perfectly.
This is a fairly developed recipe but I was able to reproduce it at home without the help of any snazzy kitchen equipment. Which means that I’m assuming you have some form of ice cream churner, a stick blender and an effective liquidiser. Agar agar is available in supermarkets and I survived the lack of drug dealer accurate scales by weighing out quadruple quantities of fiddly amounts and then dividing back to the very small quartered amount needed. (#cheofftip ™️)
The collage below shows some of the work and plating involved. There is a fuller, captioned gallery of photos here.
Not all elements appear in the recipe title. Orange powder makes a secure base for the sorbet and adds a vibrant fizz of extra citrus. That undercarriage of molasses gel would be too rich and indulgent on its own but is balanced by fresher, cleaner flavours. Having said that, I did allow several small spoonfuls to pass my lips for quality control during the process. My pineapple crisps are clunky things compared with chef’s examples but I think his kitchen might run to the expense of a dehydrator. They did still taste deliciously fruity even if more chewy than crunchy.
Two days into my prep I was messaged on Facebook by an ex-pupil. She has discovered adventurous cooking at an earlier age than ever I did and has just bought ‘dessert’. She is making the ‘sweetcorn cream, popcorn ice cream, caramel and popcorn craquant’ for friends this weekend. They are in for a treat, of course. My contribution was simply a confirmation of timescale for make-ahead elements and best storage options. What struck me as truly great was the knowledge that another person is being inspired by the work of one of our finest professional chefs. A chef who makes his work accessible with clear, friendly instructions and advice for tackling the challenges involved and producing successful results. I’ll continue to do the same in my capacity as a keen amateur and tell anyone and everyone that cooking somewhere near to this standard is achievable.
I’ll admit that it’s unlikely I’ll ever be the finished article as a human being. Instead I’ll take the far easier and more pleasant coward’s path of looking for perfection in the kitchen. Of course I’m not there yet - that coconut gel texture is all wrong, you’ll agree! Mind you, all four of us at dinner last night were perfectly happy eating this. And I’m perfectly happy to suggest that tackling such a recipe will bring a few failures which will then be far outweighed by the satisfaction of producing something approaching perfection. Enjoy getting closer to culinary nirvana by buying the aforementioned recipe books or accessing a few free ones here.
I must, however, point out that perfection is deliciously unattainable!