#101TTDBNT: Number 6

101 TTDBNT: Number 6 - Read An Insanely Complicated Cook Book

Heck, don't just read one... buy one. If you borrow this type of book from a library there will be so much detail to absorb that you may as well bite the bullet and purchase your own copy. The alternative would be to keep renewing your loan for a twelvemonth at least.

I didn't even have to buy the example of devilishly intricate instructions which I'm promoting here. It was a lovely gift from my son, James. I would call him Sous Cheoff but he is already far ahead of me in cooking skills at a much younger age. Little Cheoff (other son, Jonathan, not the occasional roadside stopping place!) isn't afraid to tackle tasks in the kitchen but chooses not to spend as much time in there.

A few pages are available on the 'Look Inside' feature here. Not the entire book - but you should get the general idea of complication, adventure, precision and eye-watering refinement which await.

The publisher's blurb says most of what needs saying. I put myself in their bracket of 'serious home cooks' who must have this book. 

“The essential guide to truly stunning desserts from pastry chef Francisco Migoya
In this gorgeous and comprehensive new cookbook, Chef Migoya begins with the essential elements of contemporary desserts like mousses, doughs, and ganaches showing pastry chefs and students how to master those building blocks before molding and incorporating them into creative finished desserts. He then explores in detail pre–desserts, plated desserts, dessert buffets, passed desserts, cakes, and petits fours.

Throughout, gorgeous and instructive photography displays steps, techniques, and finished items. The more than 200 recipes and variations collected here cover virtually every technique, concept, and type of dessert, giving professionals and home cooks a complete education in modern desserts.

More than 200 recipes including everything from artisan chocolates to French macarons to complex masterpieces like Bacon Ice Cream with Crisp French Toast and Maple Sauce
Written by Certified Master Baker Francisco Migoya, a highly respected pastry chef and the author of Frozen Desserts and The Modern Café, both from Wiley
Combining Chef Migoya′s expertise with that of The Culinary Institute of America, The Elements of Dessert is a must–have resource for professionals, students, and serious home cooks.”

I admit to having pored over the descriptions and techniques in this book more than actually cooking from it. There are accessible parts for the amateur but there is an immediate indication that we are in a world rather different to that of Fanny Craddock, Jamie Oliver or Delia Smith. The measurements in this American book discard cups and have very accurate weights given in grams and ounces. There is no other way to achieve the results on show. Precision is the order of the day. The photography reveals what is possible after so much care and attention. You can certainly eat with your eyes even if you don't attempt a recipe.

But with this sort of book on a shelf you will always have the option of tackling something which will challenge and develop you as a cook.

Do consider that option... before next Thursday, please.

#101TTDBNT: Number 5

101 TTDBNT: Number 5 - Grow Tomatoes

Here's the beauty of #101TTDBNT Number 5... you really don't need to actually do this one until a Thursday in 2017.

Since it's a bit late in the gardener's tomato planting calendar now this is intended as a bit of inspiration for what to do when next season comes round.

We have no greenhouse except for a four shelf plastic 'sentry-box' affair and have grown our crops from seed or with bought plants for almost ten years now. No allotment - just an eight by ten metre back garden which has about a third devoted to raised beds and borders for cultivation. We put in a few flowers for the first time this year... just for some extra colour after four decades of marriage!

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Our 2016 tomatoes were all grown along a west facing fence - ten plants in ten rough clay drainage cylinders which were at the bottom of the garden when we moved in forty years ago. They make things easier for dedicated watering and feeding and the roots have plenty of chance to establish before they reach the earth below. I'll have to exert a little more control next year. Growth was so rampant that it was difficult to keep up with the pinching out and nipping off to keep things from going 'Triffid'. Sweet peas, fennel, French beans and runner beans completed the jungle on view here.

Here are the varieties we grew this year. That one 'Big Boy' is the first to ripen on the vine. Experience suggests we might have to pick subsequent fruits for ripening indoors before attack from all sorts of things, including baby snails and slugs which rasp out little holes. 

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From top left, clockwise:

Supersweet (cherry), Moneymaker, Golden Sunrise, Black Cherry, Sun Baby (yellow cherry), Big Boy, Tumbling Tom Yellow (cherry), Roma (plum)

Tomato sauces have already been made and green tomato chutney beckons, made following my favourite recipe.

With such lovely ingredients inspiration is never far away but after a visit to Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons my most pressing task is to reveal the essence of tomato and use it for what must be one of the more simple but most exquisite dishes I have enjoyed for some time. If you or I make Summer Vegetable Risotto to just half the standard which was served to me last week we will be transported to a version of heaven which is not described in any religious writings. Those online recipes give you enough information to work through but Monsieur Blanc's 'Kitchen Secrets' offers deeper understanding of the methods and the way to achieve perfection. I already have the book and that risotto recipe is on page 183... Woo Hoo!

None of the recipe books or online offerings show the refined presentation which came from Le Manoir's kitchen but the flavours alone are the essential and wonderful starting point for this one.

First things first, though. Mrs Cheoff has already made her rather stupendous tomato soup from a batch of our plum tomatoes. A hint of smoked bacon and a lot of basil. It's not the only reason I love her for all eternity... but it does add another layer to the cement which binds us together - tomato yumtious!

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Of course you might find splendid people who can supply you with fine tomatoes but please consider finding space for at least a couple of plants of your own. If things go well and you discover even mildly green fingers the delights of the tomato are yours for the picking.

All because you did something before that Thursday in 2017.

Ruby Wedding #1 We Made It

Ah, there we both are... no wonder we couldn't resist each other. A couple of decades later we would meet in Norwich as students and fall in love. Before graduation we were engaged.

I remember that evening on Boxing Day 1974 when we walked to a children's playground in Grimsby and, already giddy, sat on the roundabout. I proposed. I remember Jan pointing out how much I had been drinking and suggesting I leave things until the cold light of the next day. I remember that next day when I coldly withdrew my proposal and said I'd think about it. 

Back in Norwich, I finally realised how serious my intent was and asked again. On Valentine's Day 1975 we went to choose a ring. Jan had already seen one she liked. So had I. We walked into the city and led each other to the same jeweller's shop. I pointed out the ring in the window. "That's the one I chose," said Jan. It was a good beginning.

I say beginning. Things had already started, of course. The rather wonderful thing is that 'things' have carried on going for another forty years since we married. 

At a check-up, the day before our thirty-ninth anniversary, I told our dentist that it would be a 'big one' next year... forty years.
"So, which one's that?" he asked.
"Ruby," I said.
"Oh, it can't be, can it... that's for really old people."
Hmmm. Thanks... thanks a lot.

So many different types of relationship. This has been ours. I rejoice that, now we are 'really old', it is still such a wonderful relationship.

The chances we are given to find a partner are not all the same and the support and threats given to any relationships formed are many and various. Having been granted the health and time to enjoy our love means that it is even deeper than it might have been. It also means that I easily regard our marriage as the greatest achievement of my life. Of course, I have only done half of the work... if that. I am more hard work than hard working. So I give public thanks here to Jan for her love which, in my case, passes all understanding.

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We made it to our landmark on the 31st of July 2016. Our Ruby Wedding Anniversary has been an excuse for a few indulgent ways to celebrate. Expect more posts about those.

lemon meringue tart

Maybe I can get away with that scan of the recipe title for the subject of this post. For copyright reasons and in a valiant attempt to get you to buy the publication it is taken from I'll give you nothing more. Instructions for all of the elements are to be found in David Everitt-Matthias' second book, 'essence'. It is the dessert which Jan (Mrs Cheoff) chose on our first visit to Le Champignon Sauvage. It was tweaked on that night with a stunning basil mojito sorbet. The opening picture is of the version I made recently... also with a different sorbet and, for good measure, an alternative jelly. 

Now and again I make something which demands more time than usual in the kitchen. The imminent arrival of my brother and sister-in-law was a fine reason to put in that time so that I could offer them something special.

Over a couple of days, the separate parts were prepared and ticked off a list, waiting for assembly on the night:

lemon custard
sweet pastry
meringues
lemon verbena jelly
raspberry sorbet
cardamom yoghurt

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That trio was snapped in the kitchen during the making... a spot of egg carnage to produce fourteen yolks for the lemon custard - 'Italian' meringue in the oven - and one very quick pic of the plated version presented on the night.

After we had waved our visitors goodbye I was determined to do more permanent pictorial justice to the dessert we had enjoyed together. That involved using some 'left-overs', the back of a baking tray and some curved black card. I am still my fiercest critic and am already shaking my head at that ragged custard surface, the cracked pastry and those lamentable quenelles of raspberry sorbet, one of which is behaving very badly and melting. I can hear you tutting as well.

I can also imagine some of you telling me to cut out my silly protesting and admit that it looks pretty good... and you would also be right!

So there is a half-decent photographic record of my efforts. For more, see this album under my 'PHOTOS' tab. But let's get to an important point here. Thoughtful presentation is a lovely thing but it really doesn't affect the flavour of food. Of course, your delivery will add an extra visual element but taking care to understand a recipe and pulling out all the stops with taste profiles before even thinking about appearance is surely the best approach. Each part of my dessert tasted pretty terrific. That's my assessment... thankfully it was backed up by three others.  

Choosing to attempt more complex recipes is going to present problems and will place demands on your patience. But, at whatever level you are cooking, the food you offer shouldn't be all about showing off. At the heart of things your efforts are giving an easily cracked coded message of love to special people in your life which tells them how much you think of them.  That approach starts to make even a difficult process as easy as pie. Or, if you prefer, tart.

It still tasted great when it looked like this!

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101 Things To Do Before Next Thursday: Number 4

101 TTDBNT: Number 4 - Make your own curry powder

It's still not Thursday, is it? And when Thursday does come around it still won't be NEXT Thursday, will it? No excuses then... you have all the time in the world. Wahey!

Mind you, this is such a simple treat to make that I wouldn't be surprised if you set to as soon as you've finished reading this.

I made one of Madhur Jaffrey's recipes from her 'Ultimate Curry Bible'. You can find the recipe here as well.

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Assemble your ingredients

There are a few yellow mustard seeds in with the brown. You could probably get away with using all of one or the other. Those chillies are a few from the cupboard where I store my jams, jellies, preserves and wine. When I want fresh chillies I always over-buy and string the excess on a wire hanging in that dark place. They are dry and crumbly enough after a couple of months.

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Dry roasted spices... your kitchen smells better than a freshly popped can of tennis balls

The dry roasting is best done in a pan which you can guarantee to clean well or it will taint future dishes. I keep an old wok dedicated to spices to avoid any such problem. Watch out during the grinding as well. Again, I reserve one of the four glass jars which attach to my electric blade grinder for spices alone.

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Let the 'Ruby' commence

I made three times the recipe's quantities which filled a 250g/8oz jar. Modify the ingredients, especially the chillies, and find a mix which suits. Never err too heavy on the turmeric or fenugreek delivery, though, as they can make things go from hot but fragrant to bitter and twisted.

Do try. The aromas as you heat the spices are nearly as terrific as the knowledge that you made this yourself.

I now feel the insatiable need to do something before next Thursday. Perhaps writing '101 Things To Do Before Next Thursday: Number 5' will satisfy me.

David Everitt-Matthias - A Trio of Essentials

How I wish I could say 'A Quintet of Essentials'. 'An Octet' would be even better. But I'm being greedy. The three cookbooks which I talk about here are enough to satisfy the keenest of those whose favourite room in the house is the kitchen... until another is published, of course! 

I have referenced one of David Everitt-Matthias' recipes before but I do feel rather daft for not devoting more writing time to my favourite chef.  I haven't quite worked out the reasons for this. Just wobbling around with fear of failing to do justice to a hero and almost tongue-tied by the awe in which I hold him, I guess. Of course, I must include David’s wife, Helen, in any discussion of the twenty-nine year old restaurant perfection that is Le Champignon Sauvage. That perfection is built on the combination, development and application of their immense talents and skills, applied with huge determination. One couple have created an experience which ranks alongside the most enjoyable moments in my life outside of those with my family and friends.

I should focus on those cookbooks, shouldn't I? As a keen cook, the three published volumes in my introductory picture are the most treasured purchases that I have made to feed my enthusiasm. And feed it they have. I have too many books containing lovely recipes which leave me cold as I read. The writer gives nothing more than bald instruction and a shrug of 'Get on with it'. David's books have an abundance of those wonderful dishes you would expect from a double-starred Michelin chef but on every page his presence is felt. Exciting, at first glance, complicated recipes are presented with a quiet and insistent assurance that they can be produced by you while a great teacher advises, cajoles and encourages over your shoulder. 

You are given clear and practical ways to use the books. Store-cupboard and foundation items to make in advance mean that you can have great treats to enjoy and use in your cooking through the year. Recipes are challenging; challenges of technique and of flavour profiles and combinations. Any reservations are gently smoothed over as David weaves in details of wild, foraged items, the merits of unfamiliar ingredients, tempts you with unexpected creations and gradually seduces you into the certainty that this is achievable at home.

Every recipe has elements which you are invited to include, discard or save for consideration another time. Items which were 'exotic' a few decades ago are so much easier to source now but there are plentiful ideas for substituting any ingredients still difficult to find or if a particular flavour profile is off-putting. Alternatives which still work well are frequently suggested.

Desserts obviously dominate the middle volume but there are enough in the other two to satisfy the sweet tooth... and anyone who is looking to include vegetables right up to the end of a meal!

Before getting to the glossary and acknowledgements, each book includes a few delightful recipes for petits fours. Jellies, fudges, pastries and tracklement treasures simply confirm the touch and span of a master of his art.

Crispy pig's ears with a lovely acidic tartare sauce was the first recipe I tackled. The ears stay a matter for more understanding and sympathetic treatment but the sauce is a regular treat with other meals.

Mini cinnamon-spiced doughnuts followed. White chocolate and salted lemon fudge (using salted lemons from the 'foundations' section) demands to be made regularly. Some years back we had a Boxing Day to remember with more pleasure than usual after indulging in 'semifreddo of macadamia nuts with passion fruit and star anise sorbet'. Versions of glazed pork belly, pressed apples, acorn panna cotta and ras el hanout caramel have all been enjoyed in the making and in the tasting.

With the appearance of 'beyond essence' David explores further afield to the Middle East and beyond for wonderful additions to recipes already full of complex delight. I won't expand on the repertoire from which I frequently access recipes and ideas. I leave you to discover the rest for yourself. You will have rich pickings.

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dark chocolate and star anise truffle cake

My recommendation here will be old news to many home cooks but for others this is an acclaimed chef who you might not have heard of. His culinary stature is huge and accolades are regular but his media presence is quiet and small. That someone so accomplished exists with so little celebrity is an indication of great modesty. David does not court attention... but his work demands it. The generosity you will discover in these books is in his sharing of a lifetime's experience and experimentation. 

Another chef recently posted his own dessert recipe on social media. This was met with many a 'Yum' and 'Delish'. But most added, "Looks great but I couldn't possibly do this at home... please come round and cook this for me!" I have a sneaky feeling that if David could spare the time he would respond to such a request and make his way to your kitchen. Once there, he would refuse to cook. Instead, he would gradually create the confidence you need to produce the whole thing yourself. You would be getting the same invaluable input which has nurtured so many young chefs in his professional kitchen at Cheltenham. When one of his 'graduates' tweeted "He (David) never once raised his voice" I was not in the least surprised. 

'Stages' are available at the restaurant. Failing that opportunity, you still have the 'essence' of David Everitt-Matthias. His recipes give you access to a wealth of riches which are available to grasp and enjoy. If you don't have his books you really should.

Finally, a little pondering which is brought on by my love of calligraphy, printing and books.

After owning 'essence' for a few months I noticed this information following the title page:  

“A note about the text
This book is set in Sabon MT.
Sabon was designed by Jan
Tschichold in 1964. The roman
design is based on type by Claude
Garamond, whereas the italic
design is based on types by Robert
Granjon.”

David and Helen Everitt-Matthias love France. David immediately acknowledges the use of classic techniques which were developed in French cuisine. He has relied on them with great respect as a foundation for his cooking.. What he has subsequently brought to his kitchen seems to have close parallels  to the designs of Tschichold and other typographers for whom Garamond and Granjon were shining French lights.

I might be stretching a point but, for me, it is wholly appropriate that the text of my favourite cookbooks is designed with the same approach as David's...  he and Tschichold stand on the shoulders of giants and, adding persistent excellence and genius, search for and create stunning new expressions of their chosen craft.

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Sometimes Love Just Isn’t EnoUgh

At the end of next month Jan and I will celebrate our Ruby Wedding anniversary. Time to draft a bit of speechifying methinks.

“We were much younger then and, if we are honest, not utterly sure of the outcome, but we signed a contract to bind us.

It’s actually more than forty years now since we started our relationship. Right from those early days we explored many ways to make things work. Often we selfishly started with what was best for us as an individual. But we were big enough to realise that we had chosen our partner because we rather liked them and that helped us to take their hopes, wants and needs and mix them in with ours.

Once we had made that small but significant step, we started to really grow together. Protecting your own interests while desperate not to hurt someone you think of as so very special is a struggle. Occasionally we more or less gave in to the other’s demands but so much more often we found a way to work things through with positives for both of us.

Definitely a struggle… but a struggle that revealed countless things about each other which we wanted to hold fast to and build on. A struggle which strengthened us rather than pushed us apart. We became better together than we ever were on our own.

There is love, of course - love in all its different expressions. But there is now so much more. The intricate and complicated nature of our partnership makes it at turns vibrant and frustrating… but always gloriously enriching.

There… I could just as easily be describing our marriage instead of the British union with Europe, couldn’t I?

Our marriage will endure and grow. After all those same wonderful connections made over decades it is so sad that a nation has decided to give up its previously rewarding struggle and discard its partner.

Jan and I intend to live and work in peace with the decision made on the 23 June.

Our marriage remains our wonderful and enduring achievement. We will never let it go. We will never let each other go.

Some things were not meant to be.

Jan and I were always meant to be.”

While fearing the worst, I still hope I can utter different words to our invited guests in six weeks time. If not, we will still have something magnificent to celebrate and Jan and I will be together to share whatever comes.

Sometimes love is not enough. Sometimes… let’s be honest, almost always, we need to draw on much more complicated connections. Connections which have been forged over a time long enough to give truly serious thought to breaking those precious links.

“We are far more united and have far more in common with each other than that which divides us.”

(Jo Cox, British politician)

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